shirt drafting, forward collar

[pfaff260]

First, make the armhole on the wrinkled side about  2 cm dieper. This side is now distorted because your arm is pushing the sirht down. Maybe now the marks will line up, then you can have a look at the excess material on top of your shoulder.
Good luck.

[peterle]

We need side and back pics to say wether the folds are caused by shoulder/armhole issues or balance issues or both. These alterations have to be done before any assymetric changes will be done.

The shifted center fronts are probably caused by the low shoulder which also affects your neck. Your bodie´s neck base seems to be lower on the right side than on the left. So when doing an assymetric  low shoulder adaption you should do it like shown in post #8 in this thread: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=708.0
This will also change the neckhole ( it has do be done at front and back).

[Kiem]

I'm making a muslin with more allowances.
I used the previous one to see wether I could make alterations by myself, bit of a fun experiment.

I'll try to make some better pics, taking good pictures all by myself proves to be quite difficult.

[posaune]

maybe you can make yourself something where you can stand in your cell. Then choose 10 seconds (Selbstauslöser word ?) and you will have nice pics with you arms hanging relaxed. I do it with my tablet - works wonderfull
lg
posaune

[Greger]

I tend to think that the balance is off. The front being to short. Deeping the armholes would be the wrong answer. An inch of inlay on the front shoulder would give you more than enough room to play with just by moving the seamup or, in this case,  down.

[Hendrick]

Not being a shirt person at all... I do think you're "hanging by the armpits, so to say. So it is hard to trace any defect. Further, I think besides the missing front length, there's too little chest width. You would have to unbutton your shirtcollar to reach for your backpocket? Agree with Greger that before anything else you have to get the balance in order. Also, I would cut it a little nore "generous", so you can work towards the desired fit, but that's just me...

[Greger]

When dropping or raising the front the side seams need to be adjusted, too. And that is up or down accordingly.
Another adjustment at the shoulder is moving the shoulder out or in. Inlays are required there to. Inlays along the sideseams become practical as do inlays along the front length edge. When you move your arms and shoulders is the cloth still, or moving? By experimenting you can find out where the changes need to be made. And, how much.

[Kiem]

Some of the pictures turned out a bit blurry, but I guess they will work for now.

1cm seam allowance around the neckhole, stitching line is the actual seam.
8,5 cm ease around the body. I have 3cm inlay on the shoulders and the side seams.

This is unpinned.











The problem seem to be the base of the neck that is higher on one side.
I think it is because I bent to the right side.

The left side CF does not hang straight at all, the right side CF does
The left side neck seam  lies on the throat, the right side seems in a more appropriate place.

This misalignment between buttons and buttonhole occurs with every garment. Shirts, Jacket, waistcoat, overcoat. (I checked).


These pictures are the same muslin, but pinned close on the correct markings.










I think the back look pretty good, seems the problem is in the fronts mostly?!?

[Kiem]

side pictures, the front are pulling up. Indicating short front balance?

Had this issue with a coat muslin I once made, had to add 2/2,5 cm front balance to sort that out.

Seems like a good place to start?

[posaune]

oh hell, now that I can see you standing relaxed, I see too that you have sloped shoulders. That was not the case at the beginning when you were holding your cell to take the pics. You had squared your shoulders.
3 things you have to do.
Balance
Slopping shoulders (with armhole corrections)
and
the hanging side.
I would start with the balance so the neckhole will not choke you anymore (left side).

The back is by no means okay, see the gaping at the upper armhole and your shoulderblades needs more lengths, they are pulling up.
Just start with fitting one side of the shirt. Do the same to the other side and then do the difference, eg. more sloping.
lg
posaune
because of your posture -  swing the back pattern a bit out. you need more width over your bum. The shirt cups in beneath.

[Kiem]

Thnx posaune!

I might add that I did not take in the upper back where the yoke seam would normally be.
That explains at least some of the gaping in the upper armhole.

Should I cut away the 1cm seam allowance that is included round the armhole for this fitting?

[posaune]

no, because you will later fit in the sleeves. But do sew the darts. Make them a bit more because of your posture. I would do 3 cm.  It looks like the left may need more - funny. -But first the balance. Are you left or right hander?
good luck

[Kiem]

I am right handed.

First alterations:

Added 1 cm darts at back shoulder. left + right side
Added 2 cm to left front side To compensate for the high neckline at throat.
Sloped shoulder 1 cm at shoulder point. left + right side










The left front is still high by about 1 cm. (not visible in pictures due to closed CF
shoulder darts are too small.
shirt cups beneath bum as posaune mentioned (if i tilt my hip forward the back looks cleaner around the seat).

2nd alterations made.

Let out the left shoulder seam by 1 cm to compensate for the high neckline at throat.
Added 3 cm total back darts left + right side
Added 2 cm back balance to compensate for shortness over shoulder blades.

Left side still has 1 cm slope (armhole not deepened due to the shoulder seam being let out by 1cm total).
right side has 2,5 cm slope (armhole deepened by 2,5 cm).
I Basted these, so I can let out easily to create a symmetrical slope if that is needed for pictures/reference.

I did not compensate for the needed width around the seat yet.









CF seems to be pulling up a bit viewed from the side pictures.
Left back shoulder still gapes a little bit.
I get the idea that I need to slope the shoulders a little bit more.

I can see that the natural shoulder line is not symmetrical.
It sits further back on the left side neck point, compared to the right side.

[Petruchio]

I think you must add something to the front to correct the balance. I would figur 1cm at the bust but at least 2cm at the belly (as indicated by the lines). Concerning the shoulders I'm far from being an expert but the right shoulder looks fine to me. I would think that you sloped the left shoulder already too much, so I would add something there via the slash method peterle was referring to at an earlier post and than adjust for the roundness of the back by enlarging the back dart and also make an forward shoulder alteration (I think by slashing the shoulder the neckhole would fall in the right position). Than again, I struggle with my own drafts enough to refrain from any definite advice

[Kiem]

Out of curiosity,

What happens when adding both front and back balance?!?

For example: Adding 1 cm front balance and 1 cm back balance. Doesn't this cancel each other out? I don't see how this would change anything other than deepening the armhole.

Edit:

I'll post some pictures tomorrow of the muslin with the shoulder slope symmetrical. I got ahead of myself with sloping my dropped shoulder in the pics above