Well, 3inches is a lot. Generally when you make the sleeve wider, the crown gets less high.

When you use shoulder pads, consider where to position them exactly on your body. And you have to raise the shoulder points a little to allow for them.

The thing I see, both right side panels of your coat seem be to wide. There are vertical waves/folds. Do they really have the same widths as the left ones? I'm not sure, maybe the front fold is just a stress fold from the pad.

I thought the collar might be causing some problems.  So let's take it out of the equation.  This is still with the 1/4" pad in the left and 1/2" pad in the right shoulder.

And here we are with a new collar.  The old one had been changed several times, and didn't take into account the asymmetry in the pattern - I had simply drawn the left side and reflected it to the right.  This one seems to lie much better:

Quote from: peterle on December 16, 2024, 03:28:42 AMThe thing I see, both right side panels of your coat seem be to wide. There are vertical waves/folds. Do they really have the same widths as the left ones? I'm not sure, maybe the front fold is just a stress fold from the pad.

I took another 1/4" width off the Viennese seam on the right side body.  It seems to have helped with the back fold:

Looks more symmetric with the smaller back, I think.

yes, way better. But the right jacket side collapes under the armpit. And the right sleeve is not sitting good.
So I think the right armhole is maybe not correct. Look how different right and left sleeves are hanging.

But what a surprise: such nice christmas surroundings! season bespoke! I can't barely wait for Eastern.
Lg
posaune

Quote from: posaune on December 17, 2024, 12:58:57 AMyes, way better. But the right jacket side collapes under the armpit. And the right sleeve is not sitting good.
So I think the right armhole is maybe not correct. Look how different right and left sleeves are hanging.

Hi posaune,

The right and left sleeves are not the same pattern.  I need to make a new right sleeve (same as left) and see if that fixes the problem.

And now we have sleeves from the same pattern on both sides:









EDIT:  peterle was right, there was extra width in the right front.  This has been removed - pictures coming soon.

And now with the surplus width taken out of the right front:

Much better, isn't it?
How do you like it?

Do the left and the right shoulder tip have the same widths/ same distance to the back seam?

Quote from: peterle on December 18, 2024, 07:35:33 PMDo the left and the right shoulder tip have the same widths/ same distance to the back seam?

Measuring along the shoulder seam from the tip to the collar seam, we have:

Left 6-1/2", right 6-3/4"

Measuring across the back from shoulder tip to center seam at collar base, we have:

Left 10", right 9-3/4"

Remember that the center seam is slanted from left to right as we go down the back.

There is maybe something wrong with the left- right balance.
Look at the neck - front view.  The distance from neckhole to neck is different for left and right side (see the collar of the shirt?).
I think it is about 1 to 1.5 cm. So to speak: the neck is not centered.
I attach a simple draft example. The red example starts at center back neckhole, (the blue starts at the left side neckhole). The green is a "normal" lowered shoulder.
lg
posaune

Quote from: posaune on December 19, 2024, 12:22:07 AMThere is maybe something wrong with the left- right balance.
Look at the neck - front view.  The distance from neckhole to neck is different for left and right side (see the collar of the shirt?).
I think it is about 1 to 1.5 cm. So to speak: the neck is not centered.

Hi posaune,

I adjusted the camera just before the last picture set was taken, and must have pulled the coat to one side.

It's not there in the previous two picture sets - and it's not there as I look in the mirror just now.

Plus, it's hard to see how making the right front smaller would pull the neck to the left?

I will be more careful (have my wife look more closely  ) before taking the next set of pictures.

And with that, I have to leave off fitting until after the holidays.

I'm interested in opinions about style.  What would the best hem length be?  Pockets?  Tweaks to the sleeves?

Instead of pockets on the skirts, I'm thinking about working hand warmer pockets into the chest darts, starting a couple of inches below the waist seam.  Maybe pleated pockets on the upper chest like I had on the original denim jacket.

What do you think would look best?

Oh, yes, I think it is about time to do this. Sorry for picking nitbits.
lg
posaune
in the moment I sew for a customer who has just this problem. so maybe I look for it everywhere.The left neckhole (in her case) is sliding down at the neck, the shoulder and armpit is lowered and the left hip is standig out. The spine must be bended sideways like  ">"  Difficult.