More Casual Jacket Fun

[jruley]

Some may recall the jacket which resulted from this thread in 2016:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,361.90.html

Eight years later the jacket is doing fine, but I've put on a little weight and it is uncomfortable to button. I updated the pattern last year for a little more room in the waist and also an overall looser fit (increased width but not length).  I also used a front zipper without removing the button stand, which gave some slack in the chest.  That resulted in a nice corduroy version (not shown) which I've gotten a lot of use out of since.

The latest version (shown here) uses the same pattern, but is made of a heavy woolen overcoating remnant.  I'm looking forward to breaking it in this winter.





I really like this style for spring and fall wear.  With the short tail and the "action back" it's very convenient for driving.  But on really cold days, I think I would like something longer, and maybe with hand warmer pockets.

I have some more overcoating, in a color called "Garter Blue", a little lighter shade than navy.  I'm thinking of making another one, long enough to cover the butt - I already have a knee length coat.

I could probably just extend this pattern and come up with something usable, but I'm interested in other ideas.  Don't think I need the pleated back and belt, and the separate skirt piece under the belt might be troublesome if made longer.

Thinking about trying the "Viennese seam" back style shown here:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,1557.0.html

I would like the result to be form following, but not skin tight.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jim

[Gerry]

If you click on the photo it will expand for a better view. Second from right is a similar type of jacket, but full length. No front darts, so it's not going to be overly fitted. I'm guessing Amies would have called it a ghillie collar.

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-hardy-amies-mens-fashion-1962-mens-fashions-designed-by-hardy-amies-19538701.html

I intend to make this jacket in the new year (I love the look). I even committed to buying some Melton the other week (ouch it was pricey!), so I have to make it now.

[jruley]

I like that look as well.  Maybe a little looser, and just a little longer; and I'll probably go with a zipper just for practicality.  Maybe I can learn how to do a concealed one...

This is the cloth I have, bought many years ago for historical reenactment use.  It's from Hainsworth's "overcoating" line.

[Gerry]

The fronts and the sleeves are more elegantly done on the Amies coat, but it's basically a donkey jacket minus the PVC shoulder patches. 

If you made the hems straight, rather than the fronts sloping away, it would probably give you the illusion of length that you are after.

Google around for 'Melton chore/donkey jacket' and you'll see plenty of modern interpretations of The look.

[Gerry]

This sort of thing:

https://communityclothing.co.uk/products/arthur-jacket

https://www.drakes.com/products/navy-melton-wool-donkey-jacket

[jruley]

I think that style would flatter a man with a strong chest and broad shoulders.  That doesn't describe me, so I want to build in some shape.  A little waist suppression helps hide my love handles.

[jruley]

OK - here is my first draft of a body pattern.  Fronts are extensions of my existing casual jacket pattern.  Backs developed from the "Viennese seam" manipulation to eliminate the separate yoke.

Darts in the back are just for reference, to remind me how much to ease and shrink.





Other than the uneven hem, does anyone see an obvious problem at this point?

[jruley]

I made a toile out of lightweight canvas drill.  Here I am wearing it buttoned:

[jruley]

And here unbuttoned:









I know the hem will have to be levelled.  What does everyone think of how it hangs?

[peterle]

To get the right impression of the hang, it would be better to keep the arms hanging naturally for the pics.

Your neck hole is quite tight. It could be wider for an overcoat. It's good to secure the neckline with a stay stitch to prevent stretching out while fitting.

You have a hanging right shoulder you could consider to adress in your pattern.

Looking on your pattern I recognise:
You shifted the shoulder seam for the yoke forward in your original pattern, and didn't reshift it for the new one. Be aware of that. ( The original placement would shorten the dart, thus less amount ist to be eased in)
And I think you have to reconsider the waist surpression. Waist surpression means the largest amount to take out is at the waist line. So you have to establish the right waistline throughout first and than you have to consider where to take out: keep in mind you front dart is first of all a chest dart, it should create enough width at chest level. You also incorporated a waist surpression (btw seems not to aim to the waist line). Skip that. The slight belly does'nt allow a waist surpression in this area. Draw the dart lines dead straight from the tip to the hem. (keeps the chest dart, eliminates the surpression)

[posaune]

it seems to me that the right side is not only hanging

- the right hip is going out and so the left is straighter. With you hands hanging down, pinch how much fabric you can grab right and left. I think left will be more.
But first of all correct the balance lines. The front is going up

and the side seam swings a bit to the front ( see pic).
Do you plan shoulder pads?
lg
posaune
forgot: See the neckline in the back view. There the jacekt is climbing up the neck. As Peterle wrote enlarge the neckhole (clipp with little snips at the left neck , to see how much it will be) then the hang will be better.

[jruley]

Thanks to both peterle and posaune for your comments!

For peterle:

The jacket pattern was developed from shirt patterns which already incorporate corrections for the dropped right shoulder, spinal scoliosis, and forward hip posture (these threads:

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,238.0.html
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,316.0.html
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,354.0.html)

If you think it needs more shoulder drop we can work on that, but only if really necessary.

I actually remembered to tape the neckhole this time!  That's one reason it's tight .  I don't plan to wear this over a suit jacket, but I agree a looser collar might be more comfortable.

I can't change the shoulder seam position without making new fronts.  If it won't affect the fit I will leave it for the time being.

If I understand correctly, the front darts should be ripped out and resewn as straight lines?  I will do that and then another try-on.

For posaune:

You are right about the hip, my spine slants from left to right. Maybe the shape of the lower skirts needs to be tweaked?

Looking at the old pictures of the jacket fittings I think I the balance looks similar.  Do you think it needs more front balance length?  How much to try?

I am not planning on shoulder pads.

[jruley]

I have ripped and re-sewn the front darts.  The belly is less obvious, and I think it helped the balance as well.

The sad part is, I think we went though this with the jacket years ago.  I still had both sets of darts marked on my old pattern and used the larger ones  .

Will post pictures as soon as I can.

[peterle]

I reconsidered you fronts and the strange dart form. I'm sure it derives from elongating the pattern. The kink in the chestline tells me the original pattern was yet tweaked. The slashed dart opened by pinching at the armhole. The opened dart ended at the hem of the old Jacket. You elongated the dart with tow parallel lines. This created the  "too low surpression effect".
To find out how to elongate the dart lines correctly, you have to look at the dart of the original pattern before tweaking.

[jruley]

Presenting Version 1a.

First, what changed?

The front darts have been straightened (faint red lines).  I'm sorry, but I could not be sure which dart I used for the original jacket.



A small wedge has been taken off the right side seam below the waist line on the side piece.  This was to even up the skirt width at the hem