More Casual Jacket Fun

[Hendrick]

Oh, yes, I think it is about time to do this. Sorry for picking nitbits.
lg
posaune
in the moment I sew for a customer who has just this problem. so maybe I look for it everywhere.The left neckhole (in her case) is sliding down at the neck, the shoulder and armpit is lowered and the left hip is standig out. The spine must be bended sideways like  ">"  Difficult.

I am a skolyosis type; I just adjust my shoulder paddings to "normal"...

There is an old joke about this amongst New York tailors.

A guy goes to a tailor to have a suit made. Measuremets are taken and about two weeks later he has his first fitting. the suit looks horrible but the tailor tells him to raise his left shoulder a little, put his feet wider apart and his right foot a bit forward. Two weeks later next fitting and things are no better. In desperation the client orders the suit. When he picks up his suit the tailor offers him a steep discount on the condition that he wears it immediatly and tels anybody who asks where he had it made. He steps out to the bus stop where two ladies are waiting for the bus. He is standing like the tailor told him to and one of the ladies goes "look at that poor guy", the other answers "yes but some genius tailor managed to cut a suit for him, nevertheless"

Cheers, Hendrick

[peterle]

Here is a "short overcoat" pattern.
It's length is half the body height and you can see the position and size of the muff pockets. This one is double breasted.

[jruley]

Thank you.  So a bit higher than I was thinking.  Looking at different patterns, it seems the shorter the coat the higher the pocket.  Is there a formula or aesthetic principle for this?

Is there any reason putting them in the darts wouldn't work?

[Greger]

You can put them in the darts. A hefty bar stitch at the top of pocket. Or one of those fancy triangle stitches. Some of my dad's WWII Naval coats had those fancy triangle stitches at the ends of the pockets.

[jruley]

Back from the Christmas holiday trip.  My wife marked a provisional hem line an even distance from the floor as I turned around.  This has been turned up and pinned. 

With this length, I think pockets in the darts would be less comfortable than slanting them a little.  Provisional pocket mouth locations are indicated by the brown paper strips, which seem to be where my hands naturally want to fall.

Rather than taking the dart all the way to the hem, with this pocket location I am thinking about making a cut over to the side seam somewhere in the pocket mouth.  Might make a cleaner looking skirt and I wouldn't have to cut through multiple thicknesses of material to open the pocket.  OTOH, a seam with a right angle in it can be tough to sew.

What do you think?  Both technical and aesthetic comments are appreciated.

[peterle]

I think proportionally the pockets could be a bit bigger,i.e longer and wider. They look a bit miserly.

About the dart question:
You could shift the pockets a bit backwards so the top matches the dart. You can continue the dart below the pocket at it's lower  end (the Line would be dart-pocketmouth- dart).
Or you can rotate the dart into the armhole. The dart will be much shorter and therefore less wide. Probably you even could skip sewing the dart and just gather the amount in at the armhole line and iron it. Then you would have no dart to cross. Are you planning chest pockets?

[jruley]

Are you planning chest pockets?

Yes, the same style as the original denim jacket (see post #75).

[peterle]

I personally would keep the same style for both pockets, i.e. cut through or applicated pockets.
Both styles can hide an armhole dart pretty well.

[jruley]

More "help" from Callie as I was getting ready to chalk out the body pieces for cutting.

[jruley]

Here is a baste fitting of the body.  I transferred the chest dart back into a bust dart, then shrunk it out instead of sewing.  Canvas has been basted into the fronts.  Viennese seams have been sewn and pressed; shoulder and side seams are overlapped and basted flat.  Shoulder pads are basted in place.

Unpinned version:

[jruley]

And here with a couple of pins at the neck and waist line:









Any suggestions before I proceed with pockets and permanent seams?