Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Distilled and tap water both boil at 212F, so it's not about pressure. Some boilers heat the water by passing electric current through the water. Distilled and de-ionized water are poor conductors and very slow to heat the water, if at all. Other boilers heat the water with a resistance element. Heating changes the pH up or down depending on the composition of the water. Distilled water tends to go acidic, causing rust inside the boiler. Hard water, usually with calcium, tends to be alkaline. Alkaline conditions promote a different kind of corrosion, but not rust. Alkaline corrosion was covered one of the days I skipped school so I can't elaborate. But I DO know acidic rust.

EDIT: After some googling, I THINK I understand what I missed that day I ditched school. Rust is anodic, involves oxidation and dissolution of minerals. Cathodic is the opposite, with deposition of minerals. If anodic rust is encouraged with lower pH, I assume the kind of corrosion that occurs in a copper boiler when water goes higher in pH is deposition of calcium and other scale. The copper equivalent of rust is when it goes green. So that, I guess, is the nerdy reason we shouldn't use distilled water in our irons... because they'll cause the appliance to spit brown or green, compared to mineral water (A new use for Perrier perhaps?) which deposits scale which we remove with a decalc solution.

Of course if a chemistry nerd has a better reason, by all means correct me. I ultimately failed chemistry bc too much hookey. I hated school that year.

Alright, I finally had some time to revisit my pattern and try again. I slashed and spread both the front and the back down to the knee line. I definitely took it too far and had to remove a little bit from the hip and the back. This is where I am now. Pardon the dark fabric, I got an insane deal on this wool suiting and I couldn't be bothered to make a new toile when this was about the same price.

Some thoughts.

I stretched the left side seam about 1/4" to 3/8" longer than the right and it appears to have made a huge difference. The left leg hangs a lot smoother than before.

The side pockets still seem to pull open a little bit. This is tough because an earlier baste up showed the hips with obviously too much fabric. I removed about 1/4" from the front and back side seam at the hip, tapering off up and down. Maybe that was too much? I should have saved a photo, it looked almost comical to me before the change. But then I also removed about 1/4" at the hip on the center back seam as a final correction before coming back here (currently only basted).

The right has something going on below the crotch in the back. My first guess would be crotch too long on that side specifically. Maybe due to making the left asymmetrical from the right? I am tempted to try and steam it out. Or take the non-lazy way and try to make the crotch slightly shorter on that side. But I wanted to ask for opinions here first.

Quote from: Robb on July 10, 2025, 12:45:55 AMI'm not familiar with buckram yet.

It's very similar to Banrol in feel and stiffness, but 100% cotton (rather than 100% nylon). It comes in different weights too. The lighter stuff was once common as an interfacing in shirts, especially post WWII, during the transition from detachable collars to sewn-on versions. Buckram mimicked the heavily starched feel of a detachable collar. Very stiff and most people prefer softer collars these days, so it's not used as much. Personally, I'm not that keen on it in waistbands. It has the same slippery feel of banrol. I prefer interfacing that is more organic and that melds with cloth.

Quote from: Robb on July 10, 2025, 12:45:55 AMThe canvas I have is very flexible but the tailor in that video recommends to starch it to give it a little more stiffness for structure.

Waistbands don't have to be stiff. Mine are all soft. So long as the interfacing bulks things a little and provides support for belt loops/adjusters, it's all good. Each to their own though.

Quote from: peterle on July 09, 2025, 06:49:20 PMMake sure your waistline is longer than your waistband so you have to ease it in all around. Thus the lower edge has a better grip on your body.(And also gives some room for your front tummy) 
Make a two or three point closure. Thus the waistband does not wobble around the 'one button hinge' and doesn't work it's way downwards that easily.

For my 32 waist it would be kind of like drawing the pattern for a 33/34 waist, then easing in the extra in the waistband?

With my previous trousers I had a button on the flycatch, a middle button and a hook extension. Is that what you mean with a three point closure?

Quote from: Gerry on July 09, 2025, 04:11:54 PMIt pays to experiment with different interfacings. Canvas, petersham (from milliners suppliers), unbleached, heavier weight calico (you have to shrink it) are all options. Although banrol and buckram give a nice, clean waistband, both are quite stiff and (I find) cut into the body. A softer interfacing might allow you to bring your waistband up to the height you'd like.

I'm not familiar with buckram yet. The canvas I have is very flexible but the tailor in that video recommends to starch it to give it a little more stiffness for structure.

I'll gather up all the wonderful advice and suggestions you've both been posting for I have plenty of homework now to keep me occupied with the coming weekends. I'm getting a better understanding of the adjustments I'm making. It's very much appreciated!

OK, you want the waistband that high.
You can enhance the grip with several tricks.
Make sure your waistline is longer than your waistband so you have to ease it in all around. Thus the lower edge has a better grip on your body.(And also gives some room for your front tummy) 
Make a two or three point closure. Thus the waistband does not wobble around the 'one button hinge' and doesn't work it's way downwards that easily.
Finally there are ribbons with rubber threads for the waistband wich also enhance the grip.

Quote from: Robb on July 09, 2025, 07:14:01 AMI came across this tutorial video by tailor, showing how to make a waistband for a Gurkha styled trousers using light canvas. I have some light cotton/goathair canvas that I bought for another project that I could use some of for a waistband instead of the banrol.

https://youtu.be/VeuYOpfL4Jw

His channel is excellent.

It pays to experiment with different interfacings. Canvas, petersham (from milliners suppliers), unbleached, heavier weight calico (you have to shrink it) are all options. Although banrol and buckram give a nice, clean waistband, both are quite stiff and (I find) cut into the body. A softer interfacing might allow you to bring your waistband up to the height you'd like.

With that in mind, it might be better to cut a simple band out of your calico/muslin for your fittings. It will probably feel more comfortable than the banrol.

Quote from: Gerry on July 09, 2025, 06:50:56 AMsurprising number of West End trouser-makers use Banrol. Frankly, they should have their knackers/nips clamped in a vice. It's nylon crap. I once sandwiched some between the fold of some linen cloth and gave it a press at high temperature.

I came across this tutorial video by tailor, showing how to make a waistband for a Gurkha styled trousers using light canvas. I have some light cotton/goathair canvas that I bought for another project that I could use some of for a waistband instead of the banrol.

https://youtu.be/VeuYOpfL4Jw

Quote from: Robb on July 09, 2025, 06:22:34 AMI have 2" Banrol, thinking a wider waistband would spread the tightness a little for more comfort

A wide waistband does the reverse. The top of the band has to fit the measured circumference of the waist, but lower down the body will have a greater circumference so things feel tight. All of my waistbands are 1.5 inches. I also make them fitted, which is more comfortable.

A surprising number of West End trouser-makers use Banrol. Frankly, they should have their knackers/nips clamped in a vice. It's nylon crap. I once sandwiched some between the fold of some linen cloth and gave it a press at high temperature. Things looked fine until I peeled back the cloth. The whole of the banrol had a rippled appearance, having melted slightly from the high temperature. Obviously nobody in their right mind would press wool at such a high temperature ... unless they were a clueless dry-cleaner or a have-a-go hero at home with a domestic iron. And what if you do make trousers out of cotton or linen? Will the banrol survive the higher temperature? Tune-in next week to find out!

If you want a more natural equivalent of Banrol, consider trying cotton buckram. It has the same feel and stiffness (which personally I don't like, but each to their own). Anywhere that sells curtain supplies should sell buckram. It comes in rolls, usually between 4-6 inches wide and is sold (very cheaply) by the metre/yard. The finished edges are totally straight, so once cut to width use one of them for the top fold of the waistband. The lower edge can be catch-stitched to the waist seam, or you can sew on some bias tape along its length to replicate a banrol waistband.

Buckram is sold as fusible and also as sew-in. If you're mis-sold sew-in and it has gum on it, spray it with water, sandwich between some scrap cloth and heat with the iron. Don't press, we don't want to permanently bond it. After ironing, peel back the cloth. It should come away fairly easily because spraying with water weakens the glue. The gum will be totally dry after the ironing and you can cut the buckram to size.

Quote from: Robb on July 09, 2025, 06:22:34 AMI figured my curvature to be more excessive than normal but probably better then to leave this adjustment out as it only creates more fitting issues.

You should only ever carry out adjustments on a need-to basis. Unless you have years of fitting experience, best to start with a regular draft and go from there.

Quote from: Gerry on July 09, 2025, 06:00:27 AMWaistbands are usually cut net, or slightly smaller than the circumference measured. They're meant to fit snuggly (which is different from tight). Obviously you don't like the feel of that, so ... If you reduce the width of your waistband, and increase the rise a little to compensate for the reduction, that might feel more comfortable. You'll have the pleated front a little higher up, relatively speaking; and with a band that's narrower, its lower edge won't cut into your abdomen so much. Hopefully those two things together will enable a snugger waistband that is more palatable.

That's something to consider. I have 2" Banrol, thinking a wider waistband would spread the tightness a little for more comfort but it's true that it doesn't allow it to sit a little higher up. I'll trim it down to something like 1 3/4 and increase the rise accordingly.

Quote from: Gerry on July 09, 2025, 06:00:27 AMHaving curvature to your abdomen is not the same as having a stout figure. I really don't see the need for any adjustment.

I figured my curvature to be more excessive than normal but probably better then to leave this adjustment out as it only creates more fitting issues.

PS don't rely on your waistband to do all the work of keeping your trousers up. That's what adjusters or belts are for. It's tempting to make waistbands very tight when fitting, so that the trousers stay up, but really they should only be 'snug'.