Adjusting for erect posture

[Gerry]

I have 2" Banrol, thinking a wider waistband would spread the tightness a little for more comfort

A wide waistband does the reverse. The top of the band has to fit the measured circumference of the waist, but lower down the body will have a greater circumference so things feel tight. All of my waistbands are 1.5 inches. I also make them fitted, which is more comfortable.

A surprising number of West End trouser-makers use Banrol. Frankly, they should have their knackers/nips clamped in a vice. It's nylon crap. I once sandwiched some between the fold of some linen cloth and gave it a press at high temperature. Things looked fine until I peeled back the cloth. The whole of the banrol had a rippled appearance, having melted slightly from the high temperature. Obviously nobody in their right mind would press wool at such a high temperature ... unless they were a clueless dry-cleaner or a have-a-go hero at home with a domestic iron. And what if you do make trousers out of cotton or linen? Will the banrol survive the higher temperature? Tune-in next week to find out!

If you want a more natural equivalent of Banrol, consider trying cotton buckram. It has the same feel and stiffness (which personally I don't like, but each to their own). Anywhere that sells curtain supplies should sell buckram. It comes in rolls, usually between 4-6 inches wide and is sold (very cheaply) by the metre/yard. The finished edges are totally straight, so once cut to width use one of them for the top fold of the waistband. The lower edge can be catch-stitched to the waist seam, or you can sew on some bias tape along its length to replicate a banrol waistband.

Buckram is sold as fusible and also as sew-in. If you're mis-sold sew-in and it has gum on it, spray it with water, sandwich between some scrap cloth and heat with the iron. Don't press, we don't want to permanently bond it. After ironing, peel back the cloth. It should come away fairly easily because spraying with water weakens the glue. The gum will be totally dry after the ironing and you can cut the buckram to size.

I figured my curvature to be more excessive than normal but probably better then to leave this adjustment out as it only creates more fitting issues.

You should only ever carry out adjustments on a need-to basis. Unless you have years of fitting experience, best to start with a regular draft and go from there.

[Robb]

surprising number of West End trouser-makers use Banrol. Frankly, they should have their knackers/nips clamped in a vice. It's nylon crap. I once sandwiched some between the fold of some linen cloth and gave it a press at high temperature.

I came across this tutorial video by tailor, showing how to make a waistband for a Gurkha styled trousers using light canvas. I have some light cotton/goathair canvas that I bought for another project that I could use some of for a waistband instead of the banrol.

https://youtu.be/VeuYOpfL4Jw

[Gerry]

I came across this tutorial video by tailor, showing how to make a waistband for a Gurkha styled trousers using light canvas. I have some light cotton/goathair canvas that I bought for another project that I could use some of for a waistband instead of the banrol.

https://youtu.be/VeuYOpfL4Jw

His channel is excellent.

It pays to experiment with different interfacings. Canvas, petersham (from milliners suppliers), unbleached, heavier weight calico (you have to shrink it) are all options. Although banrol and buckram give a nice, clean waistband, both are quite stiff and (I find) cut into the body. A softer interfacing might allow you to bring your waistband up to the height you'd like.

With that in mind, it might be better to cut a simple band out of your calico/muslin for your fittings. It will probably feel more comfortable than the banrol.

[peterle]

OK, you want the waistband that high.
You can enhance the grip with several tricks.
Make sure your waistline is longer than your waistband so you have to ease it in all around. Thus the lower edge has a better grip on your body.(And also gives some room for your front tummy) 
Make a two or three point closure. Thus the waistband does not wobble around the 'one button hinge' and doesn't work it's way downwards that easily.
Finally there are ribbons with rubber threads for the waistband wich also enhance the grip.

[Robb]

Make sure your waistline is longer than your waistband so you have to ease it in all around. Thus the lower edge has a better grip on your body.(And also gives some room for your front tummy) 
Make a two or three point closure. Thus the waistband does not wobble around the 'one button hinge' and doesn't work it's way downwards that easily.

For my 32 waist it would be kind of like drawing the pattern for a 33/34 waist, then easing in the extra in the waistband?

With my previous trousers I had a button on the flycatch, a middle button and a hook extension. Is that what you mean with a three point closure?

It pays to experiment with different interfacings. Canvas, petersham (from milliners suppliers), unbleached, heavier weight calico (you have to shrink it) are all options. Although banrol and buckram give a nice, clean waistband, both are quite stiff and (I find) cut into the body. A softer interfacing might allow you to bring your waistband up to the height you'd like.

I'm not familiar with buckram yet. The canvas I have is very flexible but the tailor in that video recommends to starch it to give it a little more stiffness for structure.

I'll gather up all the wonderful advice and suggestions you've both been posting for I have plenty of homework now to keep me occupied with the coming weekends. I'm getting a better understanding of the adjustments I'm making. It's very much appreciated!

[Gerry]

I'm not familiar with buckram yet.

It's very similar to Banrol in feel and stiffness, but 100% cotton (rather than 100% nylon). It comes in different weights too. The lighter stuff was once common as an interfacing in shirts, especially post WWII, during the transition from detachable collars to sewn-on versions. Buckram mimicked the heavily starched feel of a detachable collar. Very stiff and most people prefer softer collars these days, so it's not used as much. Personally, I'm not that keen on it in waistbands. It has the same slippery feel of banrol. I prefer interfacing that is more organic and that melds with cloth.

The canvas I have is very flexible but the tailor in that video recommends to starch it to give it a little more stiffness for structure.

Waistbands don't have to be stiff. Mine are all soft. So long as the interfacing bulks things a little and provides support for belt loops/adjusters, it's all good. Each to their own though.