Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Have sent him an email

Oh my Goodness. I'm sorry I missed that!

I hope he's alright.

Hey guys & gals, just wondering if anyone has heard from or have any news of 'steelmillal' ??
Whilst he wasn't on here all the time, I was thinking it has been quite a while since he was last here, in fact since October 22, 2024 !!

The back seems to have too much length on the left-hand side, going into the shoulder tip. There's a pocket of cloth there and it could do with tightening up. Pin out some of the cloth along the seam, to give you an idea of how to shape it.

There's possibly still a tiny amount of tension at the back on the right hand side, under the arm? Difficult to tell, but it doesn't look too clean. That could just be the calico though, due to lack of drape.

It's certainly looking better (especially at the back), but the right hand front needs picking up at the neck by a tiny amount. If you look at your lapel on the right, it drops down lower than the one on the left; and the balance lines show that the RHS front is swinging to the side a little.

Also, in profile the balance lines are slightly diagonal when the jacket is unbuttoned. Once the right-left imbalance is sorted, then you should probably pick up both fronts by a tiny amount at the shoulder to correct this. You might have to deepen the arm scyes by a corresponding amount.

Following all 4 sides of the muslin, open and closed, with the dropped shoulder adjustment:
1,5cm taken in at the shoulder seam, armscye lowered accordingly

Thanks Peter. I think trying to freehand a new line with the sleeve still half sewn in was maybe a bit beyond my current skill level...

Looks definitely better now but I think it could be a tad more. There are yet some ripples at the back of the sleeve.
Probably you should add a bit more height at the front of the crown, in the area in front of the top sleeve mark. (There is enough crown height vertically where the ripples are)
This will make the front crown line a bit steeper and the highest point of the crown should shift a bit forward. When you look on the profile pic you can see that the highest peak of the crown should lie a bit forward from the shoulder seam.

Right, I've altered just the left sleeve to give about 10mm more at the top of the cap. I'd definitely want to take the sleeves out entirely and re-mark the desired line before doing it again properly, but hopefully this is enough to see if I've got the magnitude of the adjustment about right. I think it looks a lot better, but then I'm not really sure what I'm looking for here:

Quote from: jruley on March 22, 2025, 11:03:50 PMI think the dropped shoulder is a more obvious issue than the sway back.  So why not correct it now, which can be done without cutting a new muslin?  You should be able to use the same correction in the new pattern.

I will definitely look at that as well, thank you jruley