Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: TTailor on November 19, 2023, 03:29:14 AMThere is still too much « air » in the front below the waist.

Just so Ttailor, that's what was refering to as 'Schluss'.

G

Quote from: Greger on May 13, 2025, 12:42:02 PMFashion interest is so short and it takes so long for Mass-production which leaves a huge chance of buyers are not interested when it hits the shelves and racks.
Styles are more steady and profitable. Except, it seems people lost interest in styles.
What is the answer?

No one knows... But, the length of suppy lines has increased multiple times over, say, the last 30 to 40 years. But profit margins have also massively increased, at least here in the olde worlde... When in my first job, the multiplier in retail was x2. The came VAT, it went to x2,2. Soon to become 2,5 early 80's. Nowadays x2,75 is a minimum and rising. Retailers aim for x3 to x3,5 on private label goods... The increase has mainly to do with the costs of goods unsold, or sold at reduced prices. So, the full price consumer pays top for unsold and discounted merch. All this means that on branded goods, over the whole distribution line (including wholesale margins), a consumer pays 6 to 8x the initial cost of goods.

France, Germany and Italy had huge "fast fashion" systems in the past. Supply lines were incredibly direct, and weekly input came directly from the retailer. In fact, their orders were more or less sold before they were delivered. Clearly this was also a boon for local textile industries. Our "outsourcing" mentality has become a form of economic prostitution and only now we are starting to realise that with sharing knowledge, we also share wealth...

We know that many of the asian fast fashion products are damaging (lead, chemicals etc.) and impossible to recycle, yet our markets are open for these products. Regulations in Europe are very stringeant. There are campaigns against the use of plain sugar (...), a bottle of liquor costs the equivalent of 25 usd. and a pack of cigarettes 15, mostly through taxes. All for our "protection". So maybe it is time to have a look at other imports as well.

Cheers, Hendrick

Fashion interest is so short and it takes so long for Mass-production which leaves a huge chance of buyers are not interested when it hits the shelves and racks.
Styles are more steady and profitable. Except, it seems people lost interest in styles.
What is the answer?

Quote from: Hendrick on May 13, 2025, 08:50:33 AMnot the guys who took you to space Al!)

We'll pick you up next time they fly by and grab me. Fun bunch; Goood beer!!

Made me think of Hutch today. He and I would've battled over this in an auction for sure

Quote from: Hendrick on May 13, 2025, 08:53:53 AMthe most cash the fasted!", but I meant "fastest"

Da Guinness is getting the basted of Hendrick 

Quote from: Hendrick on May 12, 2025, 08:03:03 PMDon't forget styling..

Timeless style should be bedrock IMHO. But is that simply good balance? I always default to fit by way of ease and cut. It may simply follow, and I'm spitballing, that the artisan skill that most accurately accents the body with balance AND time cheats is the art we seek to streamline to compete with ready-made. I just bought a vintage Ike jacket from 1967 that has the most amazing sleeve fit, for ME. The coat body is too small, but the sleeve will be dissected and captured for future use.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on May 12, 2025, 12:11:12 PMThat's right. Bogans = "An uncouth or unsophisticated person regarded as being of low social status."

Still looking for k-leather cheap 

Quote from: Steelmillal on May 13, 2025, 01:15:56 AMWe call them Cousins

        

Quote from: Steelmillal on May 13, 2025, 01:20:32 AMCollecting ain't cutting and I only can operate one at a time.

I also have a collection -

"Trust it to be something that brings in the most cash the fasted!", but I meant "fastest"

Quote from: Steelmillal on May 13, 2025, 01:20:32 AM

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on May 12, 2025, 10:43:24 AM

Quote from: Steelmillal on May 12, 2025, 05:52:16 AMNo one normal wants to look at shears,

True that!

Collecting ain't cutting and I only can operate one at a time. It was nice to score these in the early days when we would talk about them, and this brand was unaffected by our price shifting banter. Now, prices are too high unless someone knows where a collection from Hutch resides, then high prices are ok.

Once I really dug into the WH Compton history, I realized how good they are. Still, they are scissors to use a few minutes of the two weeks to make something worth a packet.

I look at shears a lot! Some 20 years ago I managed to break my right hand thumb while iceskating (played icehockey as a child). I learned cutting when I was very young, using the "mouse" below my thumb (the, ahem, "abductor popllicis brevis", so to say; not the guys who took you to space Al!) for force. Any pair I've held since the fracture will hurt the lower joint of my thumb. I've been thinking of getting something like a a pair of Wilkinsons', but what if they don't work for me? I've been cutting a lot of jersey and other knitted stuff lately and lighter (but compact) cottons and been using Kai and Sharpist scissors; these are good quality and the soft, slightly bendable grips are great. But! Every now and then I like to (or have to) cut something real, like say an overcoat fabric, and that's where these "micro groove" scissors become a sudden enemy. It is impossible to manipulate the fabric with them because the material will hang on the micro grooves and you want to be able to "glide" under it ( well you know what I mean when cutting!). So yes, been looking at shears a lot!!!

Cheerio, Hendrick