Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: Robb on Today at 06:22:34 AMI have 2" Banrol, thinking a wider waistband would spread the tightness a little for more comfort

A wide waistband does the reverse. The top of the band has to fit the measured circumference of the waist, but lower down the body will have a greater circumference so things feel tight. All of my waistbands are 1.5 inches. I also make them fitted, which is more comfortable.

A surprising number of West End trouser-makers use Banrol. Frankly, they should have their knackers/nips clamped in a vice. It's nylon crap. I once sandwiched some between the fold of some linen cloth and gave it a press at high temperature. Things looked fine until I peeled back the cloth. The whole of the banrol had a rippled appearance, having melted slightly from the high temperature. Obviously nobody in their right mind would press wool at such a high temperature ... unless they were a clueless dry-cleaner or a have-a-go hero at home with a domestic iron. And what if you do make trousers out of cotton or linen? Will the banrol survive the higher temperature? Tune-in next week to find out!

If you want a more natural equivalent of Banrol, consider trying cotton buckram. It has the same feel and stiffness (which personally I don't like, but each to their own). Anywhere that sells curtain supplies should sell buckram. It comes in rolls, usually between 4-6 inches wide and is sold (very cheaply) by the metre/yard. The finished edges are totally straight, so once cut to width use one of them for the top fold of the waistband. The lower edge can be catch-stitched to the waist seam, or you can sew on some bias tape along its length to replicate a banrol waistband.

Buckram is sold as fusible and also as sew-in. If you're mis-sold sew-in and it has gum on it, spray it with water, sandwich between some scrap cloth and heat with the iron. Don't press, we don't want to permanently bond it. After ironing, peel back the cloth. It should come away fairly easily because spraying with water weakens the glue. The gum will be totally dry after the ironing and you can cut the buckram to size.

Quote from: Robb on Today at 06:22:34 AMI figured my curvature to be more excessive than normal but probably better then to leave this adjustment out as it only creates more fitting issues.

You should only ever carry out adjustments on a need-to basis. Unless you have years of fitting experience, best to start with a regular draft and go from there.

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 06:50:56 AMsurprising number of West End trouser-makers use Banrol. Frankly, they should have their knackers/nips clamped in a vice. It's nylon crap. I once sandwiched some between the fold of some linen cloth and gave it a press at high temperature.

I came across this tutorial video by tailor, showing how to make a waistband for a Gurkha styled trousers using light canvas. I have some light cotton/goathair canvas that I bought for another project that I could use some of for a waistband instead of the banrol.

https://youtu.be/VeuYOpfL4Jw

Quote from: Robb on Today at 07:14:01 AMI came across this tutorial video by tailor, showing how to make a waistband for a Gurkha styled trousers using light canvas. I have some light cotton/goathair canvas that I bought for another project that I could use some of for a waistband instead of the banrol.

https://youtu.be/VeuYOpfL4Jw

His channel is excellent.

It pays to experiment with different interfacings. Canvas, petersham (from milliners suppliers), unbleached, heavier weight calico (you have to shrink it) are all options. Although banrol and buckram give a nice, clean waistband, both are quite stiff and (I find) cut into the body. A softer interfacing might allow you to bring your waistband up to the height you'd like.

With that in mind, it might be better to cut a simple band out of your calico/muslin for your fittings. It will probably feel more comfortable than the banrol.