shirt drafting, forward collar

[TTailor]

You are international shirt sleuths!🕵️‍♀️🕵🏼‍♂️🤔

[Kiem]

Anlegekante translated by google means edge, Anlegekante sounds like "aanleg kant" in dutch. Where "kant" would mean, edge or side.
No wonder they changed this in their updates version.. the more you know

Peterle, Is your neck hole measurement including centre front overlap??

So then, is there any ease in the neck hole compared to the collar? In a earlier post you say there was not any ease.


Im smiling with one eye and crying with the other
Thanks everyone for helping me figure this out.

[peterle]

Posaune my neckhole is the result after fitting. I´ve looked it up in the instructions I used back then: It said 1/6 neck circumference as back and front horizontal amount. Back 2cm up, front down: 1/6 neckcircumference +3cm. (from"Herrenhemden in verschiedenen Formen" in DOB+haka praxis 3/73)

I never heard or read "Anlegekante" before, but it makes possibly sense in a coat draft: There usually only the front shoulder seam has an inlay, the back side is cut just with the SA so you can put the edge (=Kante) against(=anlegen) the chalkline for sewing the seam. Other possibility: it just means the fabric edge you line up the sewing foot edge with (SA=half the sewing foot width).

[Schneiderfrei]

Anlegekante could mean abutment edge or guide edge.

https://dictionary.reverso.net/german-english/anlegekante

[peterle]

Kiem, no the measure is just to the center front line. The overlap is an individual model thing, so you have to add it like you want it.

Neckhole seam and collar stand seam have the same length in my patterns. You use the neckhole seamlength to draft the collar.

[Kiem]

Kiem, no the measure is just to the center front line. The overlap is an individual model thing, so you have to add it like you want it.

Neckhole seam and collar stand seam have the same length in my patterns. You use the neckhole seamlength to draft the collar.

Thnx that clears up my confusion.

[Greger]

There is a measure that I think would be handy. It's called the strap measure. It is from the nape down to the chest level at the vertical line of  the scye. This measure shows if the that distance is correct, short or long. It is a check measure. It can be used for pattern making, too. In American patterns it is used with the blade measurement. From center back level across to the bottom strap measure point. I think these two measurements would help find problems. A couple of worthy "tools".
To get rid of some of the excess width in back the shoulder slope, armhole shape can be adjusted.

[Kiem]

Thnx Greger, Unfortunately I don't have anyone to help me with measurements currectly. Seems impossible to do this by myself but I'll keep this in mind.

New muslin, new pattern, I put some of the alterations found in the previous muslin into the pattern to play around a bit. shirt fitting is becoming a bit boring   

narrower neck hole 6,6 by 2 back 6,6 by 8,3 front. Added a 38 cm collar stand which I had laying around.
I used the chest and back width calculation from the uni-shirt draft. Made the chest more narrow (based on previous muslin).

This time the front is done as I should have done.... yay
Added 1 cm front balance cause I thought I would need it.

Front is still short.

Some other things seem off as well.
Probably because I messed-up putting the alterations into the pattern, I guess I tried to do too much at once.

[Kiem]

For the protruding belly, could I make a slash in the muslin and sew a piece of cloth behind that to test?

Or should I implement this into the pattern first?
I did NOT alter for my protruding belly in the red shirt.

Also, the method of shifting the pattern for a dropped shoulder, how does this work on the back part? Can someone explain please.

[Schneiderfrei]

Once you have a draft on the go, do the alterations on the cloth first. As posaune says, you can thrash it to death. Most importantly, write down all your changes to the draft. At the end you create a pattern from the draft, with all its changes.

So, yes, it's expected that you may need to slash and fill.

Note that there is a difference between a draft and a pattern.

[pfaff260]

Maybe you should make the armhole just a centimeter deeper. It seems at that spot it still pulls. And make space fot your protruding shoulderblades. The front looks beter than your previous toile.

[peterle]

Before you do a forward belly alteration you should fix the balance. The front chestline is pulled up a bit in the middle and the back chestline is pulled up a lot in the middle. This tells me: Like Pfaff260 said the armholes are not deep enough. Make them deeper about1,5cm ( approximately the amount the front chest line is pulled up). The back balance needs additional elongation, another 2cm across the whole back (it lacks lenght over the shoulderblades).

ANd Yes, You are right, alterations should be done one by one, otherwise you can´t say what was right or wrong. So make these alterations first, it´s done in a few minutes. Afterwards we will see wether a dropped shoulder or forward belly is needed.

[Kiem]

I played around with the previous muslin.

Let out the front to compensate for the non existing use of seam allowances 

At this point I have 2 cm front balance.
I added an additional 2 cm front balance( that makes 4cm total) to see what would happen.

Results below.

2cm front balance



4 cm front balance



Front keeps kicking up.
I guess this proves that the problem is the CF length as Posaune mentioned earlier?

[Schneiderfrei]

That cloth looks a lot more relaxed.  Thats about what I need in the front too.

G

[Petruchio]

Too my untrained eye it looks as if the cf is sitting on the protruding belly. I think you should do the belly alteration and add some balance in the belly area, rather than in the chest area.