A Torso Line shirt

[jruley]

I got a job in Canada instead.  Lived on Vancouver Island 2 years then Pitt Meadows.  Studied out of Edmonds WA.  Was a great experience.

Glad to know it worked out OK for you.  I was curious how you managed to find a government official willing to answer the question.  I'm sure a similar question to the US government would be batted back and forth between departments until it died . 

Every government needs a Ministry of Silly Questions, but how many have one?

[peterle]

Is this needed in front and back, or only in front?  I don't want to reduce the cap width as it is quite tight around the arm already.

I would like to relocate the sleeve seam so it lines up with the body side seam.  Is there any reason not to do this?

imagine the sleeve sewn together and scoop out/make deeper the U-part of the cap line.(yes, scoop out front and back part of the sleeve cap). don´t worry about the sleeve width. keep it as is. the deepening will not increase the cap line length that much.

Relocating the sleeve seam is not a problem. But before you shift it defenitely, try wether it makes sense to rotate the sleeve in the armhole in a way the sleeve center line lies about 1,5cm towards the back from the shoulder line. You can just pin it.

[Schneiderfrei]

My local member of parliament thought it was outrageously stupid and was very happy to write for me.  It didn't help, Oregon had no intention to let me practice.  Missouri gave me a licence but the profession self destructed before I could start back in 1999.  Vancouver Island was delightful.

[jruley]

Here the front of collar has been lowered 1/2", and the left sleeve has been rotated in the armhole 1/2".  These are rough changes; the collar seam length has not been corrected and I did not scoop out the sleeve cap curve.  Fine adjustments can be made once the teacher confirms we are on the right track.  The right sleeve remains as in post #71.

[jruley]

My local member of parliament thought it was outrageously stupid and was very happy to write for me.  It didn't help, Oregon had no intention to let me practice.  Missouri gave me a licence but the profession self destructed before I could start back in 1999.  Vancouver Island was delightful.

Glad to hear your MP was willing to take ownership, and sorry your professional credentials were impacted - I missed that the first time.

If the Wikipedia article is accurate, Australia (like the US) has no "official" language.  If there was any question about your proficiency I image a simple essay question would have been a more suitable test than getting the government involved...

[Schneiderfrei]

Well it was a trick question that they had back then to weed out the South Americans and Filipinos and so forth.  Driving around the Pacific Northwest sure was nice.

[posaune]

Neck is way better now. a bit more width at the left side maybe.
lg
posaune

[Greger]

Neck height at front varies with different reasons.  For example, some older men like higher neck lines to hide wrinkles, spots and whatever.  One guy was in a plane crash and was burned. A high neck line hid much of the burn.  Nice to have a higher neck line in cold weather. Those are a few reasons for high.

[posaune]

Well, I think a too high neckline will choke you. If you want to camouflage it would be better to wear a high collar stand in the right place and button it up (look at Karl Lagerfeld).
lg
posaune

[hutch--]

I guess it must have some to do with the actual shape of the person, I cannot wear high front neck lines as they cut across my throat. Its a problem with earlier Chinese T shirts that had the neck opening too high. You also got the effect of getting the lower back of the neck sunburnt in the summer unless you wore a brimmed hat. Like many others I need a forward located neck opening.

[jruley]

Like many others I need a forward located neck opening.

This is a good point, some coat cutting books distinguish between "head forward/backward" and "balance".

I'm sure the neckhole and collar band can be shaped to make the collar button higher or lower.  Given the current neckband shape, the latest change looks and feels better because it isn't forcing the button stand to gape open.

[peterle]

The neck looks much better now. But remeasure the collar band, to be sure you don´t ease in one of the pieces.

The sleeve too. The heavy fold got milder. For the scooping out, just open the lower half(or a bit less) of the armhole seam. Probably the inside of the sleeve gets up by itself when you open the sleeve seam a bit too.

[jruley]

Here the bottom half of the left sleeve cap has been adjusted as peterle requested:

[jruley]

To relocate the sleeve seam to line up with the body side seam, I first trimmed away excess from the sleeve cap seams where they had been inserted further into the armhole.  Then I marked the balance points and carefully removed the sleeve.  I pressed it flat, using the marks for the old shoulder seam and side seam as references. 

Then I drafted a new sleeve pattern, using the folded edges of the sleeve as centerline and seam lines.  I checked and corrected the cap seam length and re-marked the balance points.  The folded sleeve and new pattern are shown here:



I put the left sleeve back in its hole, and cut a new right sleeve off the new pattern.  Here is the result.

The big remaining issue I see is the diagonal fold in back running from scye to waist.  This is more pronounced on the right side but also is there on the left.  Any suggestions?

[jruley]

Just for comparison, here is a picture set taken with the toile worn over a different, smaller (M vs L) T-shirt.  It doesn't seem to be causing the issues with the scye that the large one did.  Diagonal folds in the back are still there, but less pronounced.