My first alteration would be to shift the pitch of the cap line 1-1,5" towards the front( now itīs on the center line). Thus the front cap line would get steeper, the cap would create more room for the shoulder bone/bulge and the material would be shifted more to the back of the arm where it belongs to. The back cap line would get a bit shallower, so the "ridge" in the armhole seam around the yoke seam would get less and follow the bodyīs form( which is flatter in this area) a bit better.
For the "normal" balance shown in the pattern book the pitch line is indeed shifted forward, because the back armhole is longer than the front.
So, evidently balance affects the sleeve pitch line placement? This is another subject the book forgot to address - but then it doesn't address balance changes at all!
Since I can't post the copyrighted illustration from the textbook, here's a description of the sleeve draft:
- Draw a vertical construction line (pitch line, as peterle calls it)
- Square out horizontal lines at level of bottom of scye, elbow, and cuff
- Calculate the sleeve cap height. For the close-fitting sloper it is one-third of the armhole circumference minus 1-1/8". Mark this distance up from the scye line.
- Draw diagonal construction lines for the front and back sleeve cap. Their lengths are the front and back armhole lengths, minus 1/4".
- Divide these lines into fourths. Mark out specified amounts of fullness at these locations.
- Sketch in a smooth curve. Check the resulting length vs. front and back armhole lengths and correct as needed. No ease is added.
Is this similar to other shirt sleeve drafts?