A Close-Fitting Sloper

[jruley]

Please, Jim, clip that neck hole again but a bit deeper so the fabric can settle down.
lg
posaune

The neck hole is clipped all the way to the seam line (blue line of stitches showing in photos).  Are you saying the neck is too tight?

[posaune]

Jim, yes that is the case but look at front view.Do you see that the fabric sits not nice from neck side to CF (left side in this pic esp.)?  Just cut it a bit deeper. If the hole has the right form nothing will happen. If there is need for more room it will spread and "sit" down on you shoulder.
lg
posaune

[peterle]

I think so too.
the garments seems to sit at the neck mostly and not on the whole shoulder like it should. clipping it a bit will relax it.

I also recommend to make a set of pics without t-shirt. the tolie sticks to the t-shirt and the t-shirt twists a bit ( t-shirt shoulder seam at the left arm is displaced to the back severely).

[jruley]

As requested.  Neck hole radius is 1/4" larger, toile on bare skin. 

[peterle]

thank you.
I bet you can feel that the garments rests more on the shoulders now.

Please wear the back neck hole a bit higher. this will influence the balance positively. The fluting in the fronts is most probably partly caused by this inbalance in wearing.

Some of the fluting probably is caused by the slanted center front. Maybe we can reduce it a little bit when verified.

[Greger]

If the fronts had been crooked that would have added to the front length and taken pressure off the front chest, not to mention getting rid of some of the problems at the neck.

[jruley]

Please wear the back neck hole a bit higher. this will influence the balance positively. The fluting in the fronts is most probably partly caused by this inbalance in wearing.

My wife pulled the toile up as far as possible in the back but this is where it wants to sit.  If this is not what you wanted please explain how to do it:

[peterle]

This is better. Do you see the differences?
The back hem doesn´t cling to the body anymore, the front doesn´t swing that far forward. To achieve the right position, let your wife strike(stroke?) the garment  with flats hands over the sholderblades upwards till the center back neck meets the nape of the neck/ 7th vertebra.

As I see in the pattern pic of the front #130 the center front is slanted more than 1,5" from neck to hem. I think we can reduces this for lets say 1,5cm. this will take out 3cm at the hem and hopefully reduce the vertical flutes.
Just redraw the center front line,  1,5cm in at the hem and 0cm at the neck. No need for buttons and buttonholes, just pin it so we can have a look.

Is there a seam allowance added at the armholes?

[jruley]

Is there a seam allowance added at the armholes?

Yes, but only 1/4".

Here it is with the fronts pinned over.  Doesn't seem to have reduced the fluting much unfortunately.

[peterle]

Seems you redrafted the front line only at the underlapping front. Did you shift it for 1,5 or 3cm at the hem?

Are there some inlays at the left hand shoulder seam? there is a shortness in the left sides between chestline and neck/shoulderseam point. this causes a pulling from this point to the chest and prevents the right side neck point to settle. the cause is, your neck is higher at the left side, than than on the right side. In the pattern rise the neckpoint of the left shoulder (front and back) for about 0,5cm and blend in the shoulder- and neckline to the existing lines. In the toile just resew half of the left shoulder seam aiming to the new neckpoints.

[jruley]

I have made the alteration requested to the left shoulder.

First, for reference, here is the front buttoned:



And now the front is pinned together, overlapping 1-1/2" (3 cm) more on the underside (the furthest blue chalk line in the first photo):









I wonder if I should also increase the slope on the right shoulder?  Leaving the neck point as is, and taking a deeper seam at the shoulder end?

[peterle]

Looks a lot better now.

Yes, the right armhole needs a dropped shoulder treatment. 0,75-1cm will be enough.

The how to is covered in fig.1 of Post #86: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=189.75

Don´t forget to redraft the bottom of both front armholes first, they are yet 1/2" deeper than original because we shifted the front parts upwards for balance lately.

[jruley]

Here it is with the shoulder slope increased on the right side, so you can verify it's enough:

Don´t forget to redraft the bottom of both front armholes first, they are yet 1/2" deeper than original because we shifted the front parts upwards for balance lately.

Do you mean I need to cut them deeper in the front, or raise the bottom of scye in the back?

Or should I cut the right front deeper, but raise the back on the left, since we dropped the right shoulder?

[peterle]

It could be a little bit more. how much did you lower the shoulder?

Do you mean I need to cut them deeper in the front, or raise the bottom of scye in the back?

Or should I cut the right front deeper, but raise the back on the left, since we dropped the right shoulder?

We have to make the front and back armhole lines meet at the side seams. When you want deep armholes, redraw(lower) the front armholes, when you want narrow armholes, redraw(raise) the back armholes. But do the same on both sides. Then lower in any case the right armhole bottom the same amount you altered the shoulder slope.
This is the only way to get two identical armholes, so you can use the same sleeve pattern.

[jruley]

It could be a little bit more. how much did you lower the shoulder?

I took 1/4" (0,75 cm) out of both sides of the seam at the shoulder end.