A Close-Fitting Sloper

[peterle]

1/4" is just 0,63cm.

Try between 05/16" and 3/8 ".

[jruley]

Here it is with 3/8" out of both sides of the right shoulder end.

[posaune]

Bravo, for me it would be time to put in the sleeve now. You both did very well!!
lg
posaune
(bit clipping at the left neck again 1/3 CF to side seam)

[peterle]

Thank you posaune.

I also think you should clip the left front neckhole 2/3 from the shoulderseam down.
When you redraw the neckline, keep the old, higher  line in center back and smooth in to the new lines at the shoulder seam.

Did you yet deepen the right armhole at the bottom? it seems very tight at the back now.

[jruley]

I also think you should clip the left front neckhole 2/3 from the shoulderseam down.
When you redraw the neckline, keep the old, higher  line in center back and smooth in to the new lines at the shoulder seam.

I am planning to straighten both CF lines rather than just taking off the right side as pinned, so I will wait to make neck hole changes until we see the effect.

Did you yet deepen the right armhole at the bottom? it seems very tight at the back now.

I have not touched the armscyes yet.  That will be next, along with sleeves.

[jruley]

Here is a new toile incorporating all the changes since post ##.  First, without the sleeves.   I think I can see what posaune and peterle were saying about scooping out the left neck front more:









New sleeves were drafted to fit the armholes.  I chose to lower the scye depth in front to match the back so I could re-use it.   As a result the scyes are pretty deep and I can't raise my arms very far without lifting the shirt body.  I'm sure the bottom of scye could be 1/2" higher, maybe even 1".  Is there a guideline for how close to cut it to the armpit?

Also the end of the right shoulder seems to be off the shoulder slightly.

[peterle]

Your right shoulder seems so much lower than yesterday. we donīt change this for the moment, we donīt want it drop too much.

Yes, the armholes are quite deep now. armhole depth calculation: measured armhole depth + 1". To measure the armhole depth: hang the tape around your back neck, run both ends to the fronts , pass them under the pits and connect them across the back forming a straight line. Measure the distance along center back between lower edge of the tape at the neck and upper edge of the tape across the back. bridge the hollow between the shoulder blades with the thump.

I also think the back is too wide yet. To verify please pin two vertical strips of 1cm width from the shoulderseams to the hem roughly halve between scye and CB. donīt remove the sleeves. This will give us an impression.

[jruley]

Back pinned as requested:









Applying your method confirms that the armholes can be raised, but I will defer that until we decide about changing the back width.

[peterle]

How does it feel? too tight? wide enough?

The back armholes seem to be at the right position now and the sleeves hang much cleaner. When you think it is too tight, take out a little less (0,75cm for instance).

[jruley]

It feels fine, I believe the back width reduction was needed.

I assume I should take width out of the shoulder seam of the fronts as well, but leave the width at middle of scye unchanged?

I assume I should not change the shoulder slope, correct?

[peterle]

Yes, I think the smaller back was needed. Thus it also resembles a "close fitting sloper" a bit more.
 To adjust the paper pattern, just shift the outer edge (armhole and sideseam lines, body and yoke) of the back pattern pieces parallely towards the center back for 1cm. just lengthen the armhole line at the shoulder line till it crosses the original shoulder seam line. (it will be just a few millimeters)
To adjust the fronts, just "clip off" the superfluous length (1cm) at the outside of the shoulder seam, and from this new end point blend in the seamline towards the rounded part of the armhole.

[lepus]

I would not be happy with the shape of this neckline. Judging from the side view photographs, it seems to dip quite a bit in the back. Is the piece going to sport a standard collar type, a specially designed collar, or remain collarless?

[Schneiderfrei]

Goodness lepus, I don't think we've got as far as the neckline yet.

[jruley]

I would not be happy with the shape of this neckline. Judging from the side view photographs, it seems to dip quite a bit in the back. Is the piece going to sport a standard collar type, a specially designed collar, or remain collarless?

As a sloper it has no collar, just a plain, representative neck line.  I'm sure it could be smoother.

When I make a shirt out of it, I'll be open to style suggestions from the more experienced.  Since this thread is pretty long already I expect that will be a separate discussion.

[Schneiderfrei]

Well jruley its hanging pretty straight now, great!