Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

The pattern is very curved though the hip; much more dramatic than most examples, but the finished trousers have been okay.

The centre line being too far over seems so obvious now that you've pointed it out. I should have waited to cut the cloth and tested it I guess, but I was too eager.

Gerry the pleat is 1" deep, so I split the pattern 2", swinging the fly half of the trouser off grain as discussed in the magazine. Both pleats are the same size, and the finished measurement for the waist is correct I've just placed one (pinned in the image) in line with the centre crease, and the other (sewn down) I've put in line with the crease, which is parallel to the selvedge.

Clearly I'll have to do a full new draft. As this is already cut, do you suggest it is best to simply proceed with pleats too close to the fly, or to sew the pleat where it should be and manipulate the pleat to line up with the crease as I did on the other front? I'd love for there to be a third alternative which fixes perfectly it but I doubt that's possible.

You can't simply shift the crease-line to suit an aesthetic (a nicer looking pleat). The crease, and therefore leg, position needs to be where it needs to be, according to 'figuration'. Which begs the question, have you used the correct leg position? As drawn your pattern is for a 'closed' posture. If that is your actual posture, then leave things alone. Where your pleat 'should' be is not simply where you'd like it to be.

PS and I'm still totally confused as to what you've done on the sewn, RHS (not at all clear from your posts, sorry - you seem to be using the term 'crease' to mean something other than the centre crease down the leg?).

Edit: OK, I think I've understood you. The sewn pleat has been manipulated so that it aligns with the original draft line for the centre crease, prior to pivoting (effectively the grain of the cloth)? If so, then no, that's not the way to do things IMO.

Give the shape of the fronts, can you send a pic of the backpart?


Cheers, Hendrick

You do have a wide SA at the legs it seems.
Measure out how much difference is between the inner and the outer crotch line, just to know how much the center line is off.
You can try to shift the knee line and the hem line towards the side seam as much as possible(leave 0.75cm SA minimum). Reconnect the knee line points with the crotch tip / hip point. Thus you can shift the whole center line a bit outwards. Probably enough.

If there is not enough wiggle room, I personally would try to rescue the yet cut trousers by finishing them without pleats. And cut a new pair...

Maybe a pair of shorts. Summer is close.

Quote from: Greger on May 02, 2025, 05:51:11 PMMaybe a pair of shorts. Summer is close.

Ha ha speak for yourself. We've got nights down to 25C!

77f is a bit warm. Oven hot Australia, perhaps that is kind of cool?

Quote from: Greger on May 05, 2025, 12:34:06 PM77f is a bit warm. Oven hot Australia, perhaps that is kind of cool?

25C is actually a bit cold.

A couple of weeks ago I woke up to 25f (-3.88c) 4,700 feet above sea level. Now, that is cold!

Nippy?

Nippy, complaining? I didn't stay very long. That part of Oregon is very volcanic. Red pumice and white pumice. Perhaps lava tubes. Some, over a hundred miles long. Cold in the winter and hot in the summer.

Quote from: Greger on May 06, 2025, 12:02:12 PMNippy, complaining?

Cultural thing - Nippy = cold and unpleasant.