Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Hello all,
Excited to have found this forum, though it's encouraged my analysis paralysis disposition

I've been working off an existing (older one I created) pant draft for awhile and still struggling with the fit.  I'm thinking at this point I may be better off starting from scratch.

I'm looking to create a more relaxed fit, with a fair amount of ease around the seat and a slightly fuller, tapered leg, but not sloppy/just big.  Probably considered a 40's or 50's fit, but with a medium rise, rather than high.

I've searched through the forums a fair amount and have seen the below books recommended and have ordered.
Don Mccun, Hofenbitzer, Jungclaus

I've seen Paulin's draft noted and have the book, but reading through, it's based on 4 measurements that are taken over an existing garment, so a little leery on the accuracy.
I have Aldrich's book which I've drafted from a long time ago, but don't remember it being particularly great though neither is my memory.
I also have a couple of the newer books- Kershaw and a couple others that are more modern.

I'm wondering if there is a draft or book, specifically the trouser draft, that would be ideal to begin with.  One that is not too antique, but not super modern either.
My thought is I'll probably try Mccun's and Jungclaus'.

Understand from reading that the draft is only a rough starting point, but hoping to start closer to the finish.

Thanks!

I learned drafting after Mueller and son and for ladies. Later I started sewing for my husband and took too the Müller Method. The Mueller Books Are very expensive and when Sven Jungclaus released his books I bought them all. And I like them. Hofenbitzer was reasonable priced too. I like the layout in his books - many good drawings. At the beginning he was Close to Mueller's Methode but in the 2. edition he separates a bit. And he took up besides the ladies drafting drafting for Unisex (sportswear) with elastic fabric (knits). I have tested Aldrich for trousers and some other German and Italien drafts but in the end I stay with Mueller. Maybe because it was my first connection and I know what I must alter to get the Results I like.
Lg Posaune
I do hope that you let us participate on your work

thank you!  Yes, I held off on the Mueller book partly because of price and probably because I didn't see it on Amazon.  I think I also read it can be a little complicated.  Anyhow, I'm going to add it to my list.
And, yes I will post my results once I get a draft or 2 done.  I'm keen to develop a better understanding of the front and back rise shapes and how to control the fabric around them.

The Sven Jungclaus are very good and not to expensive.

One thing to consider is what is your postural type?

If you have a swayed back or any amout of belly projection you wont get a good result from a normal proportion draft.

how'd you guess my posture

I have a little of both of those.  I will keep this in mind.  Any advice on correcting the pattern for a swayed back?
I will start with the basic draft and add 1" seam allowance to allow for adjusting.

Basically it involves adding a moderate amount to the centre front crotch/schritt to accommodate the extra length supplies by the belly.

Mueller drafts have a little formula for this, as you can imagine:

Besides the normal calculations the so called Übermaß (waist surplus) must be determined, an amount
that will be added to the (CF) and to the waistband. 

Deduct an amount of 12 cm from the hip girth.  The result is th  ,,Normal Waistband Girth", that in turn is subtracted from the measured waist circumference and thus gives the Waist Surplus (Übermaß).

Calculation of the Übermaßes (waist surplus) ÜM:
Hu    Hip circumference              132,0 cm
                                   ./.12,0 cm  = fixed amount
NBdu  normal waist circumference   = 120,0 cm

Bdu   waist circumference            130,0 cm
NBdu  normal waist circumference  ./.120,0 cm
ÜM    waist surplus                 = 10,0 cm
              2/10 DM                = 2,0 cm


G

Quote from: Bifurcator on February 21, 2024, 12:51:31 PMhow'd you guess my posture

Desk job? Welcome to the club    I started physical therapy to deal with this recently as I was getting very susceptible to lower back pain.

Quote from: DrLang on February 21, 2024, 09:48:55 PM

Quote from: Bifurcator on February 21, 2024, 12:51:31 PMhow'd you guess my posture

 started physical therapy... t lower back pain.

Yoga and weight loss best methods. Works ever' time, saves money, and fits in your pocket.

https://www.alibris.com/booksearch?mtype=B&qwork=27834580
Used to buy them, give them away. Everybody has copy now, ha ha!

Quote from: Bifurcator on February 21, 2024, 12:51:31 PMhow'd you guess my posture

My day job is a Physiotherapist.

But seriously, A lot of people have this kind of posture, including myself. 

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on February 21, 2024, 06:13:20 PMMueller drafts have a little formula for this, as you can imagine:

Thanks for sharing this!  I think I need to add this book to my library.  Seems like a good reference to have.

Yeah, my aunt took me took her physical therapist when I was a teen for kicks and one of the first things he said was I had a sway back     so I guess I've gotten my "second opinion" now

Quote from: Steelmillal on February 22, 2024, 05:20:44 AM

Quote from: DrLang on February 21, 2024, 09:48:55 PM

Quote from: Bifurcator on February 21, 2024, 12:51:31 PMhow'd you guess my posture

 started physical therapy... t lower back pain.

Yoga and weight loss best methods. Works ever' time, saves money, and fits in your pocket.

https://www.alibris.com/booksearch?mtype=B&qwork=27834580
Used to buy them, give them away. Everybody has copy now, ha ha!

Weight isn't really a problem in my situation. The physical therapy was just a short round to get me on a self-work program that will address the issue. Basically strengthening the core and stretching the tight areas. Probably way cheaper than a yoga instructor in the long term!

Full disclosure - I did not refer to any images of yourself at all.

It was just a comment about the necessity of consideration of posture, and the so called corpultent draft is the most common one.

Technically, a corpulent silhouette has a waist measure that is in excess of the chest measure.  The sway back - Holkreutz uses the same formula to accommodate the front projection, regardless of the waist measurement.

A corpulent draft is used when your belly point sits before the bust point. With a sway back you press your belly into front. (To see if it is necessary Pictures of Sideview from whole body standing besides a doorframe are helpful). So the front pattern must have more room (like a corpulent draft).
Lg
Posaune

In case I have not rendered the table above completely correctly, here is the original image:




And here is where it sits in the draft.