More Trouser Fit Fun

[Bifurcator]

Hi Peterle,
Thanks for the stretching explanation.

The pants aren't really catching on the calves since I opened the leg more, maybe slightly though.  I'm not bowlegged, but maybe slightly knock knee and my feet do tend to point outward. Also think I'm pretty uneven from one side to the other in general

Sorry to resist the front dart, but I really prefer a plain front without dart for this trouser.  I will experiment with the front dart on another style.  If anything I'd prefer a pleat over a front dart. Understand on potentially making the back dart more shallow.

Hi Posaune,
Thanks for the visual and explanation.  I added to the entire front side seam.  I'll remove this and try adding only to the front areas as your diagram suggests.

At this point the test sample has gotten messy, so I'm going to update the pattern and cut another test sample with ample seam allowance to allow further adjustments, do press work as suggested and insure fabric is on grain and notches matched.

[Schneiderfrei]

Also I forgot to ask about this:

"With cotton I dress the back seat seam and inseam before I sew the trouser together. With steam I try to straighten the curve. The two layers together so I get the same result."

Would this be pressing the curves with steam and straightening?  What affect does this give?
Thanks!

To be fair, dressing cotton will not be very effective.

[posaune]

  Schneiderfrei, my cotton pants used to grow on me while wearing. I see it in that way: I stretch the fabric with heat and moisture and then sew the seams. The stretch is done on the bias and the seams help to hold them in form. I do what my body would do, but more controlled
It is by no way so good as you do with a wool, here you give the fabric a new structure. But it helps.
Lg Posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Thanks for that posaune, I have, in fact, wondered about it.

[Bifurcator]

Are there any good books or references that talk about stretching the garment and it's effects. I see it referenced a lot in tailoring and pattern books, but it's assumed the maker knows how and where to stretch and doesn't give much reason.
I believe there is a German book called ABC, but not sure if there's a translation?
Thanks!

[Gerry]

Are there any good books or references that talk about stretching the garment and it's effects.

It's better to watch it in action IMO. Plenty of videos on youtube show tailors stretching seams and cloth. Reza's channel gives explanation too, when it comes to coats/jackets. As for trousers (from one of our forum members):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDIHT2fMIzo&list=PLKL-S6KHgu9y0ZycK5Tw5jvgjt60-RN-i

[Bifurcator]

This is great, very informative- thanks for sharing!  Yes, definitely easier to understand seeing in action. I'm going to try some of these techniques on the next trouser I cut.