Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

PS A cool tip I learnt from an old '50s draft is to mark the midpoint between the fork tip and side seam on the back pattern along the crotch line. I place my dart in the centre of the waistband then connect these two points, resulting in a line that traverses the fullest part of the seat. The apex/point of the dart needs to be somewhere along this line (though obviously you don't extend it all the way down to the crotch line).

This creates a slight angle to the dart, but it straightens out with sewing. It works for me, anyway.

I'm also thinking that the right hip could be reduced a half cm or so at the side seam.

Quote from: Gerry on October 02, 2023, 07:07:06 PMThat's a lot better, much cleaner.

Obviously the darts look a little odd, because they're on the outside not the inside, but perhaps angle them in slightly (or pull them in more towards the CB) so that they terminate over the fuller part of the seat. As things stand, they're slightly to the sides and seem to be causing creasing past their points.

Thanks. With no helper available that I trust for this, I went with some experimentation. I put the voile on and just kind of felt for where I thought the fullest part of the seat was and put the dart there. This is on the left. On the right, I tried the method you mentioned, which moved the dart surprisingly little. Granted, accuracy is a little difficult with everything assembled. I think both look better than it was, but the real answer is probably somewhere in between.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 02, 2023, 11:04:11 PMI'm also thinking that the right hip could be reduced a half cm or so at the side seam.

I was wondering if I was the only one seeing that. I took it in about half cm below and I am inclined to think that the other side needs the same.

The left looks good here. It means your right hip is just that bit smaller than the left.

Changing those dart positions has definitely improved matters. As you say, not much in it. Go by feel, it's just as valid (if not more so - drafting is just to get you up and running).

One last go at it. Darts moved and symmetrical. Think this can be safely taken to my primary fabric? Looks like I could still do something around the seat, but I want to think I at least have a pattern that can be put to use now.

It's good enough to get you up-and-running (we could probably pick minor faults all day). Just bear in mind that further adjustments may be necessary with the actual cloth, due to slight differences in thickness, drape, weave, position of the moon etc. So make sure that you leave inlay and don't cut your darts until the fit is right ... or don't cut them at all if bulk isn't an issue - I leave mine for future adjustment (if necessary). 

Well done. These should look good further down the line.

Now I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.

Quote from: DrLang on October 03, 2023, 12:09:38 PMOne last go at it.

He thinks..

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 03, 2023, 08:49:01 PMNow I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.

But he hasn't even danced a jig to 'feel' where its tight whislt moving. Video this time..

Quote from: Gerry on October 03, 2023, 06:16:56 PMWell done. These should look good further down the line.

Yup. I think we've another victim boys and girls..

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 03, 2023, 08:49:01 PMNow I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.

Thank you, I will try this first. That might fix the one thing there that is still genuinely bothering me.

Quote from: Steelmillal on October 03, 2023, 10:17:38 PMBut he hasn't even danced a jig to 'feel' where its tight whislt moving. Video this time..

The jig has been danced and ankles grabbed throughout this adventure and results noted, but will not be shared. Sorry, that's for private viewing only 

I am well aware that this is not the end. I expect a bit more faffing with the main fabric and will be just basting a lot of it together. My main concern has been having a pattern that will capable of adjusting to something better than RTW, which so far seems to be the case in comparison to anything else I own.

Quote from: Steelmillal on October 03, 2023, 10:17:38 PM

Quote from: Gerry on October 03, 2023, 06:16:56 PMWell done. These should look good further down the line.

Yup. I think we've another victim boys and girls..

That seed was planted all the way back in 2014 or 2015 when I found the Cutter and Tailor Forum and first learned about the concept of drafting formulas. (Note, I did not draft this pattern.)

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 03, 2023, 08:49:01 PMNow I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.

Thank you so much for this. I added a hair over 1 cm (about the most that I could get from this toile) and it made a big difference. Feels more comfortable bending over too. I am so glad that I tried this before cutting.

Now what I can't decipher is, was that enough? Or should it have been more or less?

There are also those lines pointing up all along the inseam on the backs. I have assumed that this just means that I need to relax the backs on that seam, but now I wonder if it really is that simple or if it points to a different problem.

If I read this right, the reverse is relevant to backside drags Schneiderfrei mentioned, that you corrected already.

My Thoughts:

I presume this will be suspender pants.

First I think your back darts are yet too long and shoud be 5cm shorter. the tips must not reach the hip line depth. Give it a try, the pant will fall smoother.

Second I think the fronts are to too tight between hip line and waist at the moment. they cling very smooth to the body and are a bit concave below the belly as you can see in the profil views.the fabric almost seems a bit stretched and the otherwise vertical side seams are pulled a bit forward at the top. this hinders the fronts in falling freely wich results in those vertical waves. I would add 5-7,5mm  on each end of the waistline (sideseam and zipper line) fading out to 0mm at the hip line. When you don´t like the additional 1-1,5cm at the front waistline, take it out with a short front dart.

In general I think the muslin is modeled very closly to your body. Please keep in mind, adding the usual pockets and lining ecc will add quite a bit of material to be covered, as does using a thicker fabric. This can easily produce stress folds and gaping pockets when neglected.

Kepp on, good work so far. Perfect pants are quite a challenge!

More spanners the right side view shows a splendid fall, but now its the left with an unwanted pleat.

It might go away if you take peterle's advice and shorten the dart. If it doesn't, the stress seems to be at the hip height and not the waist. You might add a little width to the curve at the hip.

Peterle makes a good point about the darts. They're meant to shape the transition into the seat, not continue onto it. Otherwise you reduce ease (albeit by a small amount) across the seat.