Where to start with shirt pattern drafting?

[krudsma]

Hello all!
First of all, I'm new to the forum but have spent the last two weeks diligently digging through these fora and the archive of C&T, which has given me plenty to think about and read up on.
This week, I took my first stab at a draft using the 1959 Rundschau instructions (a big thank you to Schneiderfrei for the translation - my German is not the best). I quickly discovered upon placing the toile on my "client" (girlfriend) that even for someone who appreciates older, fuller fitting shirts like myself, the toile is fitting like a sail. I have two questions:

- Has anyone had luck modifying this draft to slim it up (say, adding only 5cm of ease to the chest rather than the suggested 10, or reducing the back pleat to 3cm instead of 6)? I imagine it isn't that simple, but figured I'd ask.
- Does anyone have a drafting recommendation for your typical, 2020 men's dress shirt? Something that fits like a Brooks Brothers Regent - moderately slim, but certainly not skinny. I've dug through this forum as well as the old one, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I thought the 1970 T&C "Slimline" draft might be it, but in further reading it seems like that one has more than a few errors and is probably not a good starting place for me. If there's a book I should be buying that will provide what I'm seeking, I'm happy to buy it!

If this has been asked and answered already and I've just missed it, please feel free to throw a link at me and I'll read up. While I am certainly an amateur, I am here to learn and happy to start wherever need be.

Thanks!

[peterle]

Did you consider this?
http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=88.0

[Schneiderfrei]

I'm with peterle,

When starting out with drafting, one doesn't understand their nature. 

The designer has a cetain silhouette in mind and the draft is designed to capture that shape.  The draft is also designed with a certain posture and proportion.

Unfortunately one can't change the draft very much without destroying it's integrity.  There are specific methods to adjust to differences in posture, but not to change the silhuette.

No historical shirt will draft a silhouette that belongs to a body shirt.  Without stretch fabric, crisp light poplin will never yield enough to be cut very close to the body.

The older drafts were never even disigned to be any shape at all. Before the mid 60s shirts were all underwear.

At least by the 60s shirts were very much flat envelopes.

The most modern drafts are very different, they are more box shaped, the bodice is much more conforming to the torso.  You can buy this from Rundschau.

The draft that peterle suggests is from the early 70s. We feel that it is not right to publish copyrighted up to date drafts that you can still buy, so its the best we can suggest to learn on. 

Robert Rahle, who designed this draft was interested in cutting edge design, this draft comes from his effort to create a unisex range of clothing. I believe this is what in part, inspired the fashion changes in the 70s.

See how you go.

G

[krudsma]

Thank you both! I'll have a look at that Unicut draft. Do you happen to have a link to where I can buy the modern draft from Runschau that you mentioned? I looked around their website but I can't find it. Is it this?

[Kiem]

https://www.becomeatailor.com/produkt/grundschnitt-hemd-anleitung/

This used to be, die gewandsammlung. They also have free drafts.

You can download this shirt draft for free.
As far as I know this is basically a rundschau draft

It says there are no seam allowances added.
Though I have a previous version, and there it says seams allowances added on the armhole and shoulder seams. (1cm).

Not sure why they changed this.

[pfaff260]

This one has everything.
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/hemden-schnitttechnik/
But it's only available in german.

[posaune]

No the shirt of the Gwandsammlung is no Rundschau. Rundschau drafts with seperate Backwidth and Armhole diameter and front width. Because of the "missing link (look discussion here)" the back is about 1.9 cm wider than the front. Therefore the armhole is not parted 1/2. (Balance:The back is longer than front) A slim Rundschaudraft has 5.5 cm Ease (bustcirc) average 7.5 and wide 10 cm
lg
posaune

[Kiem]

No the shirt of the Gwandsammlung is no Rundschau. Rundschau drafts with seperate Backwidth and Armhole diameter and front width. Because of the "missing link (look discussion here)" the back is about 1.9 cm wider than the front. Therefore the armhole is not parted 1/2. (Balance:The back is longer than front) A slim Rundschaudraft has 5.5 cm Ease (bustcirc) average 7.5 and wide 10 cm
lg
posaune

aah thank you for clarifying that!

[peterle]

It says there are no seam allowances added.
Though I have a previous version, and there it says seams allowances added on the armhole and shoulder seams. (1cm).

Not sure why they changed this.

In an older Mueller book they said, they don´t add SA to workwear shirts and similar patterns because these are usually industry- made, and the pattern drafter has to add the SAs specificated by the manufacturer.

[krudsma]

This one has everything.
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/hemden-schnitttechnik/
But it's only available in german.

Thanks, this appears to be exactly what I'm after. However, I think it would be fiscally irresponsible to drop 98 € this early especially since I don't know for sure that I'll be able to translate it well enough to work with. Does anyone know if the Rundschau magazines available on their site have shirt drafts? I'd be happy to plunk down 21€ on one of these if it has a draft I can work with.

Also, I stumbled across a copy of "Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear" by Winifred Aldrich. Has anyone has experience with this text?

[pfaff260]

"Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear" by Winifred Aldrich Are good patterns, only very 80's So the shirt will be quite large. Though i must admit i haven't tried it before. I use a Rundschau draft.

[Adriel]

Know late, though for others reading this, I was recommended Sven Jungclaus' Modern Men's Tailoring a Basic Guide to Pattern Drafting. I have yet to try any, have read through and the systems seem simple and they are easy to understand and follow, diagrams every few instructions. Hope this helps.

[Cafe Impecunious]

Not a shirt draft, but a pattern.  I've found that #107 from Laughing Moon Mercantile is a comfortable, fairly fitted shirt that is not only historically inspired, but adaptable to modern use.  Caveat, it is a 'negligee' front, but can easily be adapted to being a more classic button-up.  I'll link a YouTube video I made of that particular shirt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi1dDNWZSr0&t=35s&ab_channel=CafeImpecunious

[Greger]

Looks nice Cafe. And a neat video. Like the music.

[posaune]

Hehe the fabric's pattern goes well with the pink shears. Nice shirt. How was the reaction?
lg
posaune