1959 Rundschau Shirt

[Adriel]

Now with a little more experience and confidence, delays due to surgery then COVID with severe pneumonia, plus an okay fitting toile (maybe inquire about the fit in another thread), decided to see what results the 1959 Rundschau Shirt system produce. It can be found here: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=95.0.

I can't remember who suggested to do a 1/4 draft to run through the system, fantastic suggestion I now used. Good thing as there is something odd: T to H1 can't be Rh to TI less 2cm. My guess be A to TI is the one that equals RI, is this correct?

TIA

[peterle]

Yes, Rl as calculated measure is applied from A to get Tl. So T-H1 is the same as A - Tl minus 2cm.

[Adriel]

Yes, Rl as calculated measure is applied from A to get Tl. So T-H1 is the same as A - Tl minus 2cm.

Forgot this forum requires extra effort to be notified, only find your help coming back on my own. Tell you, I am finding after COVID and pneumonia, mental clarity is slow to return, thus why took a break.

Peter and others, in need of clarifications and answers, please:
Swinging from h1 down, starts with Sp-0,8cm to Sp? Hard to read the image.
What if h-ab/H-AB means AB does not cross at At-Av? Then what distance is Ah to Ab?
Further, for the broad back, there is an additional 2cm on the back shoulder (so h-ab + 2cm), when and how would this be added to the yoke?
The calculation produces a shoulder of 12,4 degrees, where the toile generated 14,2 degrees. When and how would this adjustment be made?
Calculations provide a 28,2cm armscye depth, giving a very generous amount of ease, how can this be reduced some and return ease of movement?
Can the 6cm box pleat be instead shirred into the yoke?
What is the 4 cm to 6cm pleat for? Isn't there plenty enough ease to go over the hips (as Lg looks too short to reach the seat)?

Thanks in advance.