Drafting trousers.

[Adriel]

Got the 3cm and 6cm S-S5 sewn up, however, trying on the former, way too large, so now curious how this works please?

Once understand, then will move to the 6cm applying the information.







Thanks and appreciation. 

[peterle]

Is this the rundschau pattern?

What do you mean with "got the 3cm and 6cm S-S1 sewn up"? There is no 3 cm or 6cm from S-S1 in the draft.

[Adriel]

Is this the rundschau pattern?

What do you mean with "got the 3cm and 6cm S-S1 sewn up"? There is no 3 cm or 6cm from S-S1 in the draft.

Oh heck, now another day delay over a niggly mistake made because relying on tired memory.  Would have thought discussed this darn seat angle enough that be obvious what I was talking about. Time to make a best guess again and break the rule of having a fitting outside the inlay, only stay up by friction.

And yes this is the Rundschau System.

[peterle]

The seat angel is S-S5 not S-S1 as you wrote before. Please be precise so we can avoid delays easier.

You should keep the seat angle as in the pattern for your fitting, wich is 1,5cm rise at S. This is an average angle suitable for this pattern and knee width. We will see wether it also fits your body.

Please also sew the seat seam at the pattern line. The inlays are just additional fabric for the case it´s needed. When not needed, they hang inside the trousers.

[Adriel]

The seat angel is S-S5 not S-S1 as you wrote before. Please be precise so we can avoid delays easier.

You should keep the seat angle as in the pattern for your fitting, wich is 1,5cm rise at S. This is an average angle suitable for this pattern and knee width. We will see wether it also fits your body.

Please also sew the seat seam at the pattern line. The inlays are just additional fabric for the case it´s needed. When not needed, they hang inside the trousers.

Thank you for the help, much appreciated! 

I am sorry, I am having a really hard time keeping track of who said what...and seems mutual. Someone said a more vertical seat angle be better for wider trousers and my flat bum. Because of the flat bum, wanted to see how 3 and 6cm look, if neither have the right angle, then can be discussed for a broadening of fitting knowledge; don't just want a pattern just for me as loving this puzzle (and had a wonderful discussion about his trouser preferences with a friend yesterday).

Or you want another made up with 1,5cm? Should be less busy this week, though this morning need to make some telephone calls. Looks like might run out of muslin too.

Where else would they hang?

[Henry Hall]

To what does the 6, 3 and 1.5cm refer?

[Adriel]

To what does the 6, 3 and 1.5cm refer?

[posaune]

Adriel, in a trouser pattern you must be careful about altering the crotch geometry. Not X cm - it is a 0.5  cm step which is changed. And please do not expect that all know what S5 represent in a draft. (And 6 cm from S to S5 is way too much)
I do not think that you have a flat bum. In the pics above you showed  that you are pressing your belly into front and the peak of your  bum is before your shoulder blades - but pics are only one moment caught. Nice dog! Your hip circ is average (comparing waist to hip) but what counts for drafting a trouser is your posture. Another trigger for the seat angle is the centering of the back leg. In the draft  it is 1 cm from M to the right. Try it out they work together. And if you draw on your muslin the line which goes from S5 to the back crotch seam, you can easily see if your angle is alright. It runs then straight across.
lg
posaune

[Adriel]

Adriel, in a trouser pattern you must be careful about altering the crotch geometry. Not X cm - it is a 0.5  cm step which is changed.

Oh my, wonder why when I was asked long while back was not explained? At least you caught it, very appreciated! 

And please do not expect that all know what S5 represent in a draft.

Okay, I will try and remember to state in every reply, appreciate you informing so can have understanding, know I must be a frustrating personality.

(And 6 cm from S to S5 is way too much)

Now feel have to finish 6cm Rundschau to feel what you mean. What is the maximum please?

I do not think that you have a flat bum.

One of the drafts I did, the model had a 32 inch waist and a 40 inch seat, in other words, 8 inch drop compared to my 4 inch drop.

In the pics above you showed  that you are pressing your belly into front...

What you mean by this? I don't think I was sucking it in.

... and the peak of your  bum is before your shoulder blades...

Even more confused by this, can you please explain or rephrase?

... - but pics are only one moment caught.

In this case, the tight muscles along the right scapula pulling my shoulder down, somehow pulled it a few days ago. Do wonder if the right side back tension also pulls the hip up, going in Wednesday for something else and will ask.

Nice dog!

Danke! The cream and silver the majority of of the time by my side, especially when chalking, pressing, and sewing, most likely because toughest. In addition, had the thought if he finds the clicking of the vintage 328K soothing (all metal gears versus the light ticking of modern plastic geared machines).

Your hip circ is average (comparing waist to hip)

Okay, appreciate the information.

but what counts for drafting a trouser is your posture.

Which changes depending on how my back is doing and my energy level. I am trying to keep better posture though had 31 years, since birth until last year, of 15 degree spine tilt to the right (saying this as affects fit and hoping the aforementioned can explain musculoskeletally so can adjust patterns if needed).

Another trigger for the seat angle is the centering of the back leg. In the draft  it is 1 cm from M to the right. Try it out they work together.

M to m on the Rundschau, correct?

And if you draw on your muslin the line which goes from S5 to the back crotch seam, you can easily see if your angle is alright. It runs then straight across.

S5 to S6 on Rundschau?

[Adriel]

Thanks to y'all putting up with me, now have a muslin, from the Rundschau System, which think worth discussing fit, very much appreciated!  Will say feels so much better than anything before, especially the extra gut.

First, no pulling in the front which think was helped by adding the 1,5cm to the side seams at the seat height based off previous critique, versus the straiter seams. Just pin shut with ease rather then struggling.

Second, to my untrained eye, looks like a lot less floppy fabric at the rear seat. Feels tighter across the back and looser where the four seams are, not like going to pop a stitch or few. What thinks y'all?

Third, no gap between the waistband and the back, unlike most of my pants.

[peterle]

Posaune wants to say, that your  entier pelvis is tilted, compared to an average posture. So your belly protrudes your chest and your bum protrudes the shoulderblades when looked at in profile. That´s your posture to wich the pattern is to be adapted.


Did you post pics of the new muslin? My screen doesn´t show any.

[Adriel]

Posaune wants to say, that your  entier pelvis is tilted, compared to an average posture. So your belly protrudes your chest and your bum protrudes the shoulderblades when looked at in profile. That´s your posture to wich the pattern is to be adapted.

Appreciate the clarification.

Did you post pics of the new muslin? My screen doesn´t show any.

Let's try that again.

[Henry Hall]

The dogs are so shocked at the improvement they forgot to photo-bomb you!

[Adriel]

The dogs are so shocked at the improvement they forgot to photo-bomb you!

Laugh my arse off! (The polite version of LMAO  ) I needed the laugh after this day, appreciated.

I take it then nothing major?

[Henry Hall]

Maybe some small issue at the back fork and what you can see under the seat-line in the side-on photo. Peterle and Posaune will advise. They know this draft very well.