Drafting trousers.

[Adriel]

Maybe some small issue at the back fork and what you can see under the seat-line in the side-on photo. Peterle and Posaune will advise. They know this draft very well.

Appreciate the reply, as what I concerned about also. I felt when pinched out a few places uncomfortable sitting, though no expert how proper trousers should feel.

Since seemed moving forward, tried the 6mm S to S5 and y'all are right, could barely get them on. LOL Kind of feels like a waste, though did get technique practice and know probably about 4cm is the maximum, though wouldn't since 3cm fits so well. Once the fit is nailed, had the idea to slice the back to create a yoke and see if can adapt the pattern to jeans without using the Cutter draft, just for grins.

Speaking of which, already did the model's draft and working on my measurements now. Practice makes close to perfect. 

[posaune]

here a pic which shows how S5  (seat angle) and m (the back trouser center) work together

you see the back pants will be shorter the legs are more pushed out .
(For ladies the average would be 4 cm for seat angle and for m = 2 cm
Children - who move a lot - will have 1.5 and 1 cm for m)
Yes there are some little drags at the rear. This always indicates length and widths defaults. The width (needed) is coming in my opion from the front pattern. It pulls at the back. If you give a bit more front "spalt" then the back trouser will move up.
And if you dress the trouser, it will go away and it will be a very good fitting one. before you sew the new one together do it! You have done excellent
lg
posaune

[peterle]

Doesn´t look bad I think.
For me there are two things:
First the waistseamline is very slanted, it drops a lot towards the front in the profile. I´m not sure it will stay up when being worn. Please post a profile pic like the one you did but this time bend the elbow  (underarm forward) so we can see the side seam run. Then we can think about how to alter.

Second are the creases under the butt.
I would pin a fishform dart across the butt: with the drawn horizontal line as center line pin a dart across the butt that takes out 1,5cm at the seat seam and gradually fades to 0cm at the side seams. When it works, we can incorporate it to the paper pattern.

[Adriel]

here a pic which shows how S5  (seat angle) and m (the back trouser center) work together

you see the back pants will be shorter the legs are more pushed out .

Fantastisch und wunderbar! Now I see how because I did not adjust m, affected how the side seam places. Is this causing the wrinkles?

(For ladies the average would be 4 cm for seat angle and for m = 2 cm
Children - who move a lot - will have 1.5 and 1 cm for m)

Oddly, just the other day was thinking when my nephews get bigger could make them tailored trousers and less than 12 hours here is the instructions.    Appreciated all of it, never know who can pass it to!  

Yes there are some little drags at the rear. This always indicates length and widths defaults. The width (needed) is coming in my opion from the front pattern. It pulls at the back. If you give a bit more front "spalt" then the back trouser will move up.

I looked up "spalt" though don't find a definition which seems to work, can you help please?

Could I add 1cm to the back panels at the side seam? Or will that make the fit worse?

And if you dress the trouser, it will go away and it will be a very good fitting one. before you sew the new one together do it! You have done excellent
lg
posaune

What means you by "dress the trouser"?

What new one?

I am stunned the second draft comes out so well and slightly surprised Rundschau requires no major adjustments.

Doesn´t look bad I think.
For me there are two things:
First the waistseamline is very slanted, it drops a lot towards the front in the profile. I´m not sure it will stay up when being worn. Please post a profile pic like the one you did but this time bend the elbow  (underarm forward) so we can see the side seam run. Then we can think about how to alter.

As I thought said, remarked how well these trousers stay up without a belt. I wore them about four hours until retiring for the night as so comfortable didn't want to switch.   

Okay, here:

Second are the creases under the butt.
I would pin a fishform dart across the butt: with the drawn horizontal line as center line pin a dart across the butt that takes out 1,5cm at the seat seam and gradually fades to 0cm at the side seams. When it works, we can incorporate it to the paper pattern.

What is a fishform dart? Google produces no answer.

[Henry Hall]

What means you by "dress the trouser"?

The ironwork you will do on the actual trousers.

[peterle]

Did You post a profile pic? Can´t see one.

fishform: that´s how you call a dart with two tips and wider in the middle.

[Adriel]

Did You post a profile pic? Can´t see one.

fishform: that´s how you call a dart with two tips and wider in the middle.

Okay.

[Adriel]

What means you by "dress the trouser"?

The ironwork you will do on the actual trousers.

Thank you for clarifying. 

[Adriel]

[peterle]

Please wear the trouser waistband the same hight than in the other pics. At least the back of the waistband is worn much lower then in the other pics.

[Adriel]

Please wear the trouser waistband the same hight than in the other pics. At least the back of the waistband is worn much lower then in the other pics.

Decided to confuse y'all and compare to OTR pants with a 13,5 inch rise and see if the waist sits the same, and does.



Though, now I see the wrinkling in the leg, which later on the muslin realized because I am locking my knees back. Having almost finished reading a University textbook on hygiene from 1937 and these fittings coinciding, been looking at posture and see if can improve it.

The first pictures of the muslin are when first put on. After wearing and letting it go where wanted, IMHO I had pulled the back waist too high. I'm sorry to cause this upset. Thus, why wanted to compare to OTR and see if both settle in the same place and they do.

So here are the correct pictures to compare the fish dart, as same amount of wrinkle as before.



Also, putting the muslin on this morning, find lost two or three centimeter off the waist, so know that will also muddle the fitting. Guess I shouldn't be trying to loose the eggnogg weight now? 

[Adriel]

Now because I am a system thinker who over thinks, thought to bend half way between a stand and a sit to check fit. I know trousers are supposed to be close, though prefer some ease. Interestingly, the wrinkles go away.



So when shrinking the trouser during dressing, does that still allow the fabric to give?

My thought on thinking on the wrinkling over the last few days is, how many in this unknowing world be looking at my bum and know what the wrinkles mean? Have you seen how these Americans wear there pants with pools of fabric over there shoes, looking like melting into the floor?

Not that wouldn't try to get them out, though don't have to be my usual perfectionist and get it perfectly flat.

[Henry Hall]

It's definitely going to remove them when you bend like that - same cloth over a longer length.

It is only in certain areas that they are shrunk (or stretched), which includes the back of the thigh. There are other methods like raising the back knee-notches and fulling on the fronts, but this is for a later discussion.

The dressing of the trousers won't make them tight.

[Adriel]

It's definitely going to remove them when you bend like that - same cloth over a longer length.

Thus why I didn't bend all the way as understand should be some tightness when seated, just not busting stitches like on the previous.

It is only in certain areas that they are shrunk (or stretched), which includes the back of the thigh. There are other methods like raising the back knee-notches and fulling on the fronts, but this is for a later discussion.

Fine, will look forward to discussing knee-notches and fulling at a later time.

The dressing of the trousers won't make them tight.

Will it take out some of the wrinkles?

[Henry Hall]

Will it take out some of the wrinkles?

I say yes, but others may not. As far as I see the drafting system you are using places strong emphasis on accuracy at the cutting stage.