Men's Trousers Slanted Side Pocket and Zipper Fly

[lepus]

Cologne-based tailor Sebastian Hoofs has published two more videos which perhaps find some interest here. They are in German, so being able to understand that language will help in following the procedures demonstrated, but most things will hopefully be clear even if that isn't the case. Perhaps one tip: he mentions "abgekettelt" a few times, which means overlocked (or serged), which I found difficult to see in the video because of the colours of fabric and thread.

The first video is about a method for making a slanted trouser side pocket. The variant shown has no adjacent facing, the pocket bag starts immediately at the opening, although he mentions the faced type as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiA2cd1nSoo

My comment here would be that I always make the trouser pocket so that the bottom of the pocket bag runs downwards to the front and the front bottom point is always obtuse or rounded, so that no object (or dirt) can embed itself there, but that is just my preference.


The second video shows how to make a zipper fly in men's trousers. There are also some views of the band and instructions for making the fly-waistband transitions. It all looks quite neat, I think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3kFgUESzB4


BTW, a hardened glass plate or table like he has is an excellent surface for flat basting, the needle point never catches.

[Henry Hall]

Good post. I like watching his videos.

I don't have room for more than one table so I use a hardened-glass sheet on the table after seeing it in one of his other videos. At the beginning I had to keep reminding myself not to use the iron like I did when I was only working on the wood! I don't know if it's heat-proof, but I don't want to find out either.

Like you I also round the front (and also the back) corner of the pocket, though I cut everything square beforehand. On the last pair I employed jetted front pockets and tried out shaped front pockets like those in the ABC des Schneiderhandwerks.

[jruley]

Thank you for posting this.  I never thought of cutting the transverse slit on the outer side of the bag before sewing it closed.  Tried that on a pair of pockets today and it made things much easier.

[Sebastian Hoofs]

Good post. I like watching his videos.

I don't have room for more than one table so I use a hardened-glass sheet on the table after seeing it in one of his other videos. At the beginning I had to keep reminding myself not to use the iron like I did when I was only working on the wood! I don't know if it's heat-proof, but I don't want to find out either.

Like you I also round the front (and also the back) corner of the pocket, though I cut everything square beforehand. On the last pair I employed jetted front pockets and tried out shaped front pockets like those in the ABC des Schneiderhandwerks.

Well, for ironing on this table, I use a very thick blanket... the glas is very nice to work on

[Greger]

So! You found this place.
It must be pretty nice to find a couple of your videos being recommended here.
Glad you came by. Hopefully you can participate now and then, when not to busy elsewhere.
Wish more tailors wrote here.

[TTailor]

I wish I had a better understanding of German.
I can follow along because I know how to put in pockets and flys,  but I wish I could easily understand more of the speaking in videos and more of the writing in the books I have.
Nicely done videos.

[Sebastian Hoofs]

So! You found this place.
It must be pretty nice to find a couple of your videos being recommended here.
Glad you came by. Hopefully you can participate now and then, when not to busy elsewhere.
Wish more tailors wrote here.

Yes, I was very proud to see my videos been recommend here! Normally, they where made for hobby sewers... in jackets for example we do the welt pockets nearly just by hand so a quite different way. But this is what I love about our profession! There are so many ways and I think these videos can help beginners in tailoring, too! As we see so little about men tailoring....

I am here from the first moment! But to be honest, we all have this busy days and I forget about the forum here :-(

Warm greetings from Cologne :-)

Sebastian

[Sebastian Hoofs]

I wish I had a better understanding of German.
I can follow along because I know how to put in pockets and flys,  but I wish I could easily understand more of the speaking in videos and more of the writing in the books I have.
Nicely done videos.

I really was thinking about doing this video in English and Spanish, too! Maybe I can add some subtitels, but my German and Spanish is excellent but in English I would need somebody to put it in correct phrases

[mysewingpleasure]

Thank you so much for sharing these two videos, Sebastian had made the greatest demonstrations I have ever found in the YouTube,
What I miss is that I cannot understand what he is teaching. I learn a lot of how to make it with a professional traditional master workmanship.

[Schneiderfrei]

I'm so glad you joined the forum Sebastian.

G

[mysewingpleasure]

Dear everyone, would someone please translate the tutorial of the zipper fly, I watched many times of the video, I still cannot fully catch the way the SA allowance for the fly on which the zipper is attached, how to match with the SA of forepart of the pants. When Sebatianplace the zipper on the fly, there is another space kept away from the SA. please help to work the SA of both of them, I appreciate your kindness if you can draw a draft or send me an email. Thank you so much!