selvage denim trouser fitting

Started by Chanterelle, October 12, 2024, 03:39:12 AM

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Gerry

Quote from: Chanterelle on February 26, 2025, 05:01:44 AMI am measuring my hip loosely and then the pattern to make sure there is enough ease. I must be incompetent.

Apologies if you're already aware of this, but just to make sure we're on the same page, on the back you can't just use a net measurement (even if 'loose') at the seat line, as with the front. An additional one to two inches width is required on the back pattern. Which will give you between two to four inches of ease across the whole seat.

How much is required varies from individual to individual, or for the type of fit you want. For my personal draft, for example, I use 1.5 inches of extra width. This gives me 3 inches of ease across the whole seat at the back.

And don't give yourself a hard time over this. Accurately taking one's measurements is tough enough; fitting oneself it's even tougher.

jruley

Study the Mansie draft here:

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,56.msg215.html#msg215

Compare the waist and seat measures to what is actually laid out on the waist and seat lines.  That will give you an idea of the usual amounts for ease (and seams, 1cm per seam).

Notice the side seams are not straight.