How to cut a Overlapping Hip on a Coat Pattern

[SO_tailor]

(I moved this from The Apprenticeships Forum, if an admin can delete the page that would be helpful)
Hi there! I have a question on how to cut these certain drafts that have a overlapping hip line.

This is a pattern from the Master Designers System, but a similar draft to the MTOC 1-2 editions (which I have also drafted before). One thing that I've always been stuck on is how to cut the overlapping hip line. Does anyone knows the method to cut this? Thanks and Regards

[TTailor]

You make the draft on paper, then copy the overlapped section to another piece of paper.
You can lay another piece of paper underneath and trace through with a needle tracing wheel, or if you have translucent paper, lay it on top of your pattern and trace the overlap
Then cut the original pattern piece apart, and tape the overlap to the applicable piece.

[SO_tailor]

Thanks!

[SO_tailor]

I just love those beautiful curves on those patterns. Wish everything wasn't as straight as it is now.

[TSjursen]

Another method is to draft the back and cut that out first, then place it a bit further in on the drafting paper and weigh it down with something to make sure it doesn't move. Then proceed to draft the forepart. This way you won't have to glue or tape on a separate piece.

[SO_tailor]

Thanks for the recommendation, that is definitely what I will do next time, especially since I have a 17" roll of brown paper and a 30" roll of brown paper.

[SO_tailor]

Thanks for the posts! I decided that TSjursen's was the most workable method since I didn't have tape anywhere. Either way thanks for the help with this confusing draft!

[Greger]

Wax paper and glue.
Some old timers would cut half and half.   When drawing on the cloth it is freehanded. Since you are going to have inlay on one side, for fine tuning that coat, it's pretty easy. Cloth to Cloth is different and, people gain and lose weight. A pattern is in general. Styles and fashions come and go. There are details you want for a personal pattern. Such as shoulder slope. An example of details not important to a pattern is shoulder width. These details are drawn on the cloth for that coat. And sleeve cap is adjusted. The next coat could be a different variation. A good pattern is designed for easy adjustments to various styles and fashions. Another example the same pattern can be used for a baggy to close  fitting coat.
Since clothes are largely about visual then it becomes looking at an established pattern and changing it, no numbers, to the vision you see the person wearing that they ask for. Words and numbers sometimes just fade out of the discussion. Words of motive are rather important. Motives are about passions, poems, stories, etc. What is the heart of a style or fashion. The customer has the details that he wants to portray. During the fitting these details can change. After all, what he/she starts out with may not look good on that body or personality. Anyway, went into more depth than intended to.

[SO_tailor]

Some old timers would cut half and half. 

Apologies, but what does "cut half and half" refer to?

[Greger]

On the overlap draw a horizontal line. When cutting, front or back, cut on that line, and finish cut on the other front or back. When chalking on the cloth the parts the parts missing are fairly small and easy to eyeball with sweeping moves.

[SO_tailor]

Thanks (apologies I didn't read this in time)