Construction of the overcoat vs the coat

[KTuakli]

Hello,

I've have a couple of drafts for overcoats, but I realised that I haven't learned anything specifically about overcoat construction and I haven't found anything dedicated to overcoat construction in any of the books that I have. So, I was wondering if there are any key differences between the construction of an overcoat versus a suit coat.

Are the construction techniques and approaches the same? If not, where and how do they differ? Is it still canvassed? If so, how do you determine the correct weight/type of canvas? Do you still use a felt undercollar? And so many more questions that are probably silly.

It may be that the construction of an overcoat is the same and all that changes are the measurements to accommodate what you wear underneath and style lines. But, I didn't want to find out the hard way that it doesn't quite work like that.

Any answer would be gratefully received, even if the answer is "it's all the same, stupid".

Thanks in advance.

[TSjursen]

Construction wise they are much the same. To save yourself som trouble in making up (especially if the cloth used is very heavy), you can work the coat in halves. Instead of assembling the entire coat (back panels and foreparts) before setting in the sleeves, attach each back part to its respective forepart and leave the back seam until last (before the collar comes on). The shoulders, sleeves, felling linings, front edge stitching, buttons/buttonholes etc. can all be done on each half instead of having to handle the entire mass of coat when sewing. Maybe not done so much anymore, but try it in with a calf length coat in a 35 oz. fabric and you'll see the benefit.

You should use trimmings to match the weight of the cloth unless you want a comparatively softer look. There are really no hard and fast rules to canvas weights and types, there are so many to choose from and it requires a bit of experience to determine what canvas causes what effect in different types and weights of cloth. A double layer of canvas is sometimes used if a heavy enough weight is not available. You can use what is typically sold as chest canvas throughout the whole front, too. (Not haircloth.) Traditionally overcoat pockets were often made of a soft brushed cotton (selvyt) or some other soft fabric, comfortable to stick your hands in to warm them. Linings can be made of wool for added warmth, in that case the hem of the lining is often finished with binding and is left free instead of felling it to the hem of the coat. Less bulky and interferes less with the drape of the coat. The same goes for the facings, they can be finished with a bias binding and be stitched down on top of the linings, instead of the linings being turned in over the facings and felled down.

[Greger]

Some tailors run the canvas down four inches below the bottom buttonhole.

[KTuakli]

Thank you so much for your replies! Lots of really helpful info and I really appreciate it.