Bust Divergence? Donnanno drafts

[TTailor]

Hello All,
I recently needed to produce some children's costuming for a tv/film job, and I only had The book Metric Pattern Cutting for Childrens wear by Aldrich as a drafting reference.

So, even though I am trying not to purchase more books, I bought a book called Fashion Patternmaking techniques for Children's Clothing by Antonio Donnanno. His books are originally in Italian, and this is an English translation.

My question is regarding the sizing chart included in the book. One of the measurements is called Bust Divergence.
I am at a loss as to what this measurement means.

Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas about this? I don't see it referenced in the measurement diagram, nor do I see it in any of the basic drafts so far.

If an example helps - for the 12 month size the bust circ. is 49 cm, waist 48.5, hip 50  front chest width 20.8 sector (armhole width) 6.7  and bust divergence is 13 cm.

I can scan the chart and post it if that helps. It is in very very fine print, which is really unfortunate since all the diagrams are quite large and easy to read.

Thanks!

[peterle]

Searched the web a little and found out the italian term is Divergenza seni usually found in ladies size tabels:

http://mrsartoria.it/Misure/Corpini/corpini.htm

The text says: "Divergenza seno: you get it by measuring the distance between the breast centers"

With the illustration I´m pretty sure its the bust tip distance.

[TTailor]

Thanks so much!
I didn't try translating back to Italian to search.
Bust point to bust point i guess.
Not a measurement I expected to be included or needed  in a newborn to preteen size chart.

[Schneiderfrei]

"If the only tool you have is a hammer, Everything looks like a nail"   Maslow

The author didn't look far from their desktop to write the book.

G

[peterle]

It would have been enough to translate it with "bust distance" instead of bust divergence.

Yes, it´s surprising to find it on a children´s table.

[Despos]

My first thought was locating the fullest point of the bust measured down from the neck point. Relating to a high or low bust point. Would help you to find the fullest point on the chest and where to place the darts

[peterle]

@ Despos:
This measurment is called "ALTEZZA CENTRO SENO = bust point height" in the linked article.

[Schneiderfrei]

Could it not be: "Height of the bust centre?

[TTailor]

It could be vertical  measurement.
It is too bad that it is not shown in the "how to take the measurements" illustration, nor have I found it used in the drafts yet.

[Schneiderfrei]

Ages ago Schneidergott posted an Italian Shirt draft by Ciraci.

One thing that held me back from doing the draft was the measurement - semiampiezza dorso

It was completely unexplained, and Schneidergott could find no other reference to this in his literature at the time.

It would be great if someone could post an Italian measurement system.

Here is the draft:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1044.0

G

[peterle]

I checked the book "il modellismo by l´ínstituto di moda Burgo by Ferdinando Burgo. It is an italian pattern drafting book covering female, male and children drafts and looks totally the same as the Donnanno patterns, and is partly in italian and english. I think the Donanno books are just the contemporary version (although with a bad translator and lector)
This book also uses these measurements in the ladies part:
"Bust height: measure from shoulder at neck to the bust point"
"Breast distance: the distance between the two bust points".
The "basic bodice pattern with dart and full bust" uses this measurments for findig the bust dart point. (A1- N and N-N1)
The children part of the book doesn´t use these measurements.

[Despos]

One translation for ”semiampiezza dorso” I found is “half shoulder”

Just saw another translation as “half back”

[Greger]

Getting kind of confusing now.  How could it be so many places?

[Schneiderfrei]

I appreciate your confusion greger, I'm confused as well.

[Hendrick]

I asked an Italian friend; according to his "modellista", it is simply the half distance between the back-arm points. I.e. at the height where the distance between armholes is at its shortest; over the shoulderblades, not the shoulders...

cheers