Author Topic: A Close-Fitting Sloper  (Read 85914 times)

peterle

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #135 on: April 29, 2016, 07:48:42 PM »
seems we are on the right way...

So letīs talk about measurments:
Is your hip width (measured over trousers) wider than your chest width?
I think the  hip displacement is regarded sufficiently now, but I think the hemline/hipline is a bit  too small all over and causes a pulling on the left and on the right side.
so making the hemline wider for about 2-3cm per seam would release this tightness.



jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #136 on: April 30, 2016, 12:17:32 AM »
seems we are on the right way...

So letīs talk about measurments:
Is your hip width (measured over trousers) wider than your chest width?
I think the  hip displacement is regarded sufficiently now, but I think the hemline/hipline is a bit  too small all over and causes a pulling on the left and on the right side.
so making the hemline wider for about 2-3cm per seam would release this tightness.


Hip circumference is 2-1/2" greater than chest (42-1/2 vs. 40).  So, I will re-sew the side seams from waist to hem, adding 3/4" to the width of each side at bottom.  That will add a total circumference of 3".

What about the left shoulder?

jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #137 on: April 30, 2016, 12:46:27 AM »
Here we are with the lower side seams angled for more hip room.  The left armhole doesn't seem to be as messy, maybe releasing the tightness helped:









I think the shoulder slope needs to be increased slightly.  Compare this shot of the back where I am deliberately holding my shoulders high.  The upper back looks cleaner:



peterle

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #138 on: April 30, 2016, 04:43:24 AM »
The sideway pulling dissappeared with this alteration, so it was too tight at the hiphip. But You should alter the sideseam beginning at the armholemaking a straight line, not a line with a kink .

Are you sure, you did the new toile with all alterations? It seems we had a better balance in the toile #108. Or Maybe you wear the back neck a bit too low?

jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #139 on: April 30, 2016, 07:31:02 AM »
Quote

Are you sure, you did the new toile with all alterations? It seems we had a better balance in the toile #108. Or Maybe you wear the back neck a bit too low?

Compare the new toile to #123, the last picture set with the old one.  Balance looks about the same as the new so the problem is not transferring the alterations.

Compare #123 to #109.  The balance did look better in the earlier one.  The only change was the side seam skew, so this must have affected the balance somehow.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2016, 10:18:27 AM by jruley »

jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #140 on: April 30, 2016, 10:17:52 AM »
Here we are with the side seams straightened, and the yoke lowered 1/2" relative to the main part of the back for better balance:









peterle

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #141 on: April 30, 2016, 05:52:40 PM »
The back is defenitely too short now. Ugly diagonal folds beginning at the shoulder blades. So lower it  only 1/4" or nothing. I donīt think the back balance was too long. If at all, the front balance was too short.

Please only one alteration per set. Itīs easier to see wich effect the straight side seams have, itīs harder to judge this with the  back alos shortened.

The right shoulder is dropped a little in the last two sets.

hutch--

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #142 on: April 30, 2016, 08:08:33 PM »
This much I have noticed, it is very difficult to stand dead straight, be it through posture, dropped shoulder or just the way the photo is taken. The rear view is straighter than the front view and that is a mix of how the photo is taken and Jim slightly changing his posture. When I recently has the Harris tweed coat modified, I had to stand as straight as possible, perform my normal range of arm movements as Peter was pinning up the modification but then he is a very experienced tailor who has been doing this for many years and he knew how to pin up the mod.

Now as Jim does not have an independent person who is a tailor to set up the mods he wants, the task is a difficult one because of the number of variables that interfere with properly understand the fit through photographs.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #143 on: April 30, 2016, 11:27:46 PM »
The rear view is straighter than the front view and that is a mix of how the photo is taken and Jim slightly changing his posture.


Actually I think what you're seeing is that the camera wasn't level.  Look at the slope of the lower cabinet edge.  I was trying to level this by shortening one tripod leg and it must have slipped; noticed it only after the apparatus was put away so did not re-take the photos.  Something else to watch out for..

Schneiderfrei

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #144 on: May 01, 2016, 12:06:47 AM »
Actually, you are right about the camera.

jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #145 on: May 01, 2016, 12:08:11 AM »
Here it is with the yoke raised to its former position.  So this is like #137 with just the side seams straightened as peterle requested.









peterle

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #146 on: May 02, 2016, 07:55:39 PM »
I always refer to the lower edge of the cabinets. I think they are installed horizontally? So it wouldnīt matter wether the camera is level or not.

The back is quite good now. There is a very slight dropped right shoulder.(a little kink in the vertical fold).

I donīt know why, but the front balance is a bit too short yet. The hem seems to stand away more than necessary. What happens, when you keep  just the uppest button closed? Do the front center lines overlap?

The quick and dirty method for a longer front balance: just resew the side seams, attaching the fronts about 1/2" higher to the back. The front hem will be shorter for this amount.

jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #147 on: May 02, 2016, 11:32:35 PM »

I donīt know why, but the front balance is a bit too short yet. The hem seems to stand away more than necessary. What happens, when you keep  just the uppest button closed? Do the front center lines overlap?


Here is the existing configuration with only the top button buttoned:


jruley

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #148 on: May 03, 2016, 12:11:40 AM »
Here we have the fronts raised 1/2" at the side seams:









And here the front with only the top button buttoned:



posaune

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Re: A Close-Fitting Sloper
« Reply #149 on: May 03, 2016, 01:03:43 AM »
Nicely done, Peterle. Go on!
Please, Jim, clip that neck hole again but a bit deeper so the fabric can settle down.
lg
posaune