Zipper Fly Construction- Underlayer Seam always shows

[Bifurcator]

Thanks again for all the help, tips and advice.
I read through Hostek and Reinhardts fly construction directions. I did a mock up of Hostel's. It was a little difficult to follow, but I gleaned a few insights like the importance of doing a lot of baste stitching and he attached zipper to facings and shield before attaching to the pants. He only suggest offsetting right and left sides by about a 1/4" at top, going to zero at bottom, so the right side zipper seam was still showing at the bottom, anyhow I was only trying his way to gain insights.

I think a few key takeaways are
-mark the CF line, where left side needs to overlap to and baste before sewing zipper to facing on left side
-Dont force the curve part of rise on left side into a straight line at CF, it creates buckling. As long as it's cover seam and top stitch of right side it's ok.
-basting wherever the fabrics tend to want to pull
-watch and avoid the presser foot pulling/stretching the fabric


After the Hostek mock up I did another mock up (below) using my construction and using the tips and advice given.
On this one I sewed the rise seam below fly last, which made it easier to create the fly, especially the left side with J-stitch, but was a little tricky to get the presser foot all the way to the bottom of the J Stitch because flys facings are sewn down at that point.

I do think maybe I will try straightening out the left side front, where zipper is attached, a little. Even though its overlapping, the curve isn't really doing anything for the fit and does make aligning to CF line difficult.
I still need to fine tune J-stitch shape and still not completely happy with what's going on beneath the fly so going to continue tweaking/experimenting construction and pattern in that area.




On another note, any chalk recommendations or tips? I use mainly cotton fabrics and it seems to always leave a permanent mark. It makes doing the final garment sewing much harder because I'm always scared to use it on final cloth.