selvage denim trouser fitting

Started by Chanterelle, October 12, 2024, 03:39:12 AM

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TTailor

QuoteDenim jeans are not drafted like trousers.
Was coming here to say the same thing.

Gerry

No they're not drafted like trousers, but they can be!  :)

The reason why the French and people like Bill Green started cutting jeans like trousers in the 1950s, was because of the limitations of the traditional cut.

I have a pair of designer jeans purchased in the early 90s. They're cut like a pair of 1950s trousers, albeit with a yolk. That's when I stopped wearing 501s, they were just a superior fit and style. They're a little tired now, so I just wear them for DIY jobs, but if I ever desire to wear jeans again I'll clone them.

Chanterelle

Quote from: Gerry on October 13, 2024, 08:34:09 PMHowever, I would consider repositioning the leg to avoid drag lines if that's an issue, though it would mean abandoning the selvedge idea. Though you'll need to sort out the fork first to make an evaluation, because its tightness is distorting the cloth a fair bit (difficult to know if some of those drag lines are from the fork or the wide leg spacing ... or both).

I have too much selvage denim on hand to abandon the selvage idea, unfortunately. I'm not opposed to a bit of diaper butt, haha, nor to a bit of drag. But do want the excessive drag to go.

That said, I extended the fork as you said previously and that seems to have sorted out most of the drag lines. will update with an image when possible.

Thanks for your help--and continued effort to help!

Chanterelle

Quote from: Hendrick on October 13, 2024, 07:50:45 PM

Super helpful to visualize. Think I may need to add some more fullness to the CB seam, given these images. But I'd like your take when I update with the new draft

Chanterelle

Quote from: Greger on October 14, 2024, 01:12:02 PMI personally would put in a western style front pockets.

The pocket style I prefer is a straight slant, nearly horizontal...gives a bit of western without being constume-y I think.

Chanterelle

Quote from: TTailor on October 15, 2024, 01:20:31 AM
QuoteDenim jeans are not drafted like trousers.
Was coming here to say the same thing.


The problem I have with a standard denim draft is that I get the excessive drag. I'll upload a pic of me wearing store bought denim to show. Hence the major scoop in the CB seam. The problem the scoop creates is an issue with makeup...the two back panels come together in an extreme point, with excessive angle down the first few inches of the back inseam

Hendrick

Quote from: Chanterelle on October 15, 2024, 01:55:41 AM
Quote from: Greger on October 14, 2024, 01:12:02 PMI personally would put in a western style front pockets.

The pocket style I prefer is a straight slant, nearly horizontal...gives a bit of western without being constume-y I think.

These are usually referred to as "Sta-press" pockets. Patched front pockets with a diagonal opening as "engineers-pockets", 4-patch pocket jeans as "ship mates", front western style pockets as "revolver pockets", curved vertical pockets as "banana pockets", Levi style patched back pockets as "spade pockets". And actually, James Dean wore 505's instead of 501's; the construction is similar but they have a zipper fly instead of buttons and a narrower bottom leg...

Cheers, Hendrick

Greger