Shirt Collar Guide

[Hendrick]

Gorgeous shirt! How will you iron a woolblend like that?

[Schneiderfrei]

Hendrick, actually, I don't iron those frequently. They don't shrink though. I've tested that for quite few years.

Gerry, they were straight out of the wash, which was machine wash, with pure cake of soap, grated and emulsified.  In our summer weather they were crisply dried in 10 minutes.

I realise I should show the fit as well, but I'll get to that eventually.

I cant emphasise how useful it was to fit a waistcoat first.  Since there is very little ease in a waistcoat and the lines are very simple, errors show up clearly.

There are some fitting issues which will remain the same for many years, I just draw those ones into any new draft.

G

[posaune]

Nice Article, Gerry. I put it in my shirt libery, pitty the pic: shirt block is broken.
Now in his gallery he speaks about  interlining in the collar.......an additional panel at the center back of the collar is add, so that the tie could not move. Does that mean he reinforces in this part?

To sew a shirt is for me like meditation
lg
posaune

[Gerry]

Nice Article, Gerry. I put it in my shirt libery, pitty the pic: shirt block is broken.
Now in his gallery he speaks about  interlining in the collar.......an additional panel at the center back of the collar is add, so that the tie could not move. Does that mean he reinforces in this part?

To sew a shirt is for me like meditation
lg
posaune

This is the photo:

https://www.thetravellingartisan.co.uk/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-15650878/images/59d7a07a1782aqn2ftXL/Sop15652_d1450.jpg

There's fine top-stitching all along the edges of the shirting, either side of the exposed canvas (is it canvas?), suggesting that it's meant to be exposed. Judging by the raised seams, it looks like an additional strip, so I'm guessing it's a similar principle as gripper tape in waistbands.

Another shot here:

https://www.thetravellingartisan.co.uk/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-15650878/images/59d7a09cb65509YGh3C1/Sop15647_d1450.jpg

No idea, but I'm really impressed by his approach and knowledge. Truly bespoke. Plus he uses a proper sewing machine . Main gallery of Tullio Innocenti here for anyone who's interested:

https://www.thetravellingartisan.co.uk/gallery

[Gerry]

Apparently he makes shirts for our current Prime Minister (though that could be anyone by the time you read this ... these days we get through them pretty quickly in the UK).

[Schneiderfrei]

Beautiful work shown in these Gerry.

[Petruchio]

This is the photo:

https://www.thetravellingartisan.co.uk/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-15650878/images/59d7a07a1782aqn2ftXL/Sop15652_d1450.jpg

There's fine top-stitching all along the edges of the shirting, either side of the exposed canvas (is it canvas?), suggesting that it's meant to be exposed. Judging by the raised seams, it looks like an additional strip, so I'm guessing it's a similar principle as gripper tape in waistbands.

Another shot here:

https://www.thetravellingartisan.co.uk/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-15650878/images/59d7a09cb65509YGh3C1/Sop15647_d1450.jpg

What do you mean by an additional strip? To me it seems like floating interlining. After turning the collar you would simply make the fold and get the right side out of the way.
I tried a similar principle with this italian style collar I made some time ago ( I think classically it's usually not the interlining itself but another layer of coarse oxford cloth). Btw this method produces more swolen edges since the allowance is turned on the right side.

[Gerry]

What do you mean by an additional strip? To me it seems like floating interlining. After turning the collar you would simply make the fold and get the right side out of the way.
I tried a similar principle with this italian style collar I made some time ago ( I think classically it's usually not the interlining itself but another layer of coarse oxford cloth). Btw this method produces more swolen edges since the allowance is turned on the right side.

I was only going by the text that was married to the first photo I linked to: "An additional panel is left on the centre back"

However, it's far more likely that a photo of this panel has been omitted and Mr Innocenti is referring to the arrangement you've outlined. Like I said in my post, I had no idea. 

[Gerry]

Actually, Petruchio, I'm not sure what you've done there. I thought initially that it was like a 'tunnel loop', which the tie slips through. But on closer inspection it seems to be exposed interlining? Perhaps it's a trick of light.

If the latter, does it have more grip or something? (not sure how that would stop a tie slipping). Also, I still don't understand from your description how you did it. Unless it is a loop, then I get it. Though wouldn't that be on the collar stand?

[Gerry]

I just remembered one of Kirby's videos, showing the arrangement in this photo:

https://www.thetravellingartisan.co.uk/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-15650878/images/59d7a07a1782aqn2ftXL/Sop15652_d1450.jpg

An explanation is given at the 5:20 mark:

https://youtu.be/zWF-q2izaJU?t=318

[Petruchio]

Actually, Petruchio, I'm not sure what you've done there. I thought initially that it was like a 'tunnel loop', which the tie slips through. But on closer inspection it seems to be exposed interlining? Perhaps it's a trick of light.

If the latter, does it have more grip or something? (not sure how that would stop a tie slipping). Also, I still don't understand from your description how you did it. Unless it is a loop, then I get it. Though wouldn't that be on the collar stand?

Yes, it is exposed interlining... no loop. Usually it's made with an additional layer of oxford cloth, like in the attached picture. But I've also seen examples of doing it with just the interlining. I'm not sure how practical it really is, but in theory it just makes the collar a little thinner at the back, facilitating the fold.

[Petruchio]

Constructionwise you just sew the cloth pieces of the collar stand on the interlining first. You then proceed as usual, but you have to turn allowance of the interlining to the right side (so you get quite visible swolen edges)