Continental Shirt Opinion

[Gerry]

Apologies for the quality of this snap (it was taken from a TV still, before I knew how to disable the flash on my new phone). I'm wondering how this early '60s shirt collar was constructed. Obviously the collar is one piece, but I'm guessing it's been grown on to the body, like a shawl collar? Or do you think it's a sewn-on one piece and we simply can't see the join, due to poor resolution? Any shirt makers out there? (or anyone done something similar?).

https://flic.kr/p/2nHNH5d

I'll probably do a combination of drafting and draping to get the collar right. Just don't know which way to tackle it to begin with.

[hutch--]

Hi Gerry, you photo looks OK, hope one of our members can help you out.

[Gerry]

Good old Google:

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2020/07/31/patterns-of-the-past-exploring-the-early-1960s-italian-collar-shirt

[TTailor]

I think it's a shawl collar with the top collar/facing combined. Seam at centre back neck.

[Gerry]

Thanks for your input Terri. I found a cheap, vintage pattern on eBay. When it arrives, I'll know one way or the other!
According to that extract from Coffin's book (shown in the article linked above), the undercollar is sewn on and the top collar (seamless at the back) is grown on to the body facing. Will be interesting to see.

I can probably graft the pattern's collar design onto my self-drafted block. It I go for a draft myself, at least I'll have a guide.

[theresa in tucson]

Gerry, check out Peter Lappin's blog "Male Pattern Boldness".  He's made several shirts  with collars like this and blogged about them; patterns and pattern numbers also.  I've got two of those vintage patterns in different sizes but have yet to give them a try.

[Gerry]

Gerry, check out Peter Lappin's blog "Male Pattern Boldness".  He's made several shirts  with collars like this and blogged about them; patterns and pattern numbers also.  I've got two of those vintage patterns in different sizes but have yet to give them a try.

That's brilliant, thank you! 

[Gerry]

Thank you again Theresa. For those interested, this page is really useful:

http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2019/06/sewing-italian-collar-vintage-shirt.html

[Gerry]

Although a different collar shape, this shirt has the same inner construction:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpetSGFGpRs

[Gerry]

Similar to above, and same construction:

https://www.deoveritas.com/blog/one-piece-collar/

[peterle]

You can also avoid a visible neckhile seam:

[Schneiderfrei]

I will add that the type of draft wil be called a grown-on collar.  As much as possible of the draft is inculded into a single piece of fabric. It needs to be done correctly, of course. Likely some of the above will help.

G

[Gerry]

Thank you both for the additional comments.

That's very cool Peterle, thank you! What book is this from? Is it worth buying? (I speak a little German and can always get by with the translation app on my phone).

I've now had a chance to look at Coffin's chapter on this type of collar. Very helpful. I'll probably go for my own draft (I now see what needs to be done), but still want to see the vintage pattern for construction tips. What I'm unsure of is whether to use soft, sew-in interlining for the collar? Deoveritas claim that there's no interlining whatsoever in their shirt. Also unsure of how sew-on lining would be done for the facings (they don't seem to fold over like usual shirt fronts). I've seen organza used in this type of 'floating' facing. I have a load of Poplin left-overs, so will probably experiment with samples.

[peterle]

It ist from " Der Zuschnitt für die Damenschneiderei" 20th edition by Mueller, Munich. This book about patternmaking for womens wear is from the Sixties and has a nice section about collars.

[Gerry]

Thanks Peterle. Not easy to come by, but I'll keep it on my 'watch list'.