Men's t-shirt pattern grading

Started by Dana89, May 19, 2021, 04:14:53 AM

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Dana89

Hello,
I built a men's t-shirt pattern in Valentina according to instructions from muller und sohn book. I took out sizes s-2xl to create a graded pattern. In the picture you can see that according to the draft the front part gets bigger in relation to the back as the chest girth increase. Is this normal? Should I go for a more traditional kind of grading with x and y instead of doing it with Valentina?


jeffrey

Yes, go with a traditional grade. Menswear is usually smaller in the front than the back and the reverse for womenswear.
That is usually dealt with in the initial draft so an even grade should not distort armholes and sleeves too much.
If you find distortion from your grade you can always fine tune.

posaune

I think you did something wrong. I do not work with Valentina, I use Patternmaker.  My pattern in he pic are from size 45 up to size 71. (These are patterns for big guys)
I could grade them - but I use the measuretables instead. Much quicker for me. lg posaune


Dana89

I followed the instructions for the construction  from muller und sohn that say (for size 50) from the book fundamentals menswear:
Back width- 1/8 chest+6.5+0.75 ease= 19.75
Syce width- 1/8 chest-1+0.5 ease= 12
Chest width- 1/4 chest-5.5+0.75=20.25

When you use this calculations for bigger sizes you will get a front that is much bigger than the back.
Should I ignore these calculations and make the front and back the same width?

posaune

I am sorry, I did not read the header properly. It says t shirt. Sorry.  I think you should take:
Rb = 1/8 Bu + 7 + 1 ease
AD = 1/8 Bu      + 1 cm ease
Bu = 1/4 Bu - 7 + 2 cm ease
lg
posaune
ONLY for knitted fabric

TTailor

Quote from: Dana89 on May 20, 2021, 04:20:25 AM

When you use this calculations for bigger sizes you will get a front that is much bigger than the back.
Should I ignore these calculations and make the front and back the same width?


I think there should be changes in proportions at certain increases in chest sizes. Size breaks.
I don't know if there is a formula table for menswear.

posaune

In the table I own sizes breaks are happening only in the length and length derived measurements (beisdes the armhole height:  it depends on bust circ :-)).
Built like a god ---- that`s it

lg
Posaune


Greger

That doesn't look right at all. Most needs to be added to the front edge. While Poulins book shows coat grading it shows better placement of measurements.