Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

PS The overall draft seems better.

Quote from: Gerry on July 01, 2025, 03:30:09 AMRobb, have you pinned the CB seam on the outside? ... pinning on the seam is not a good idea (assuming this is what you've done).

Yeah that's what I did, I pinned the excess on the outside of the seam.

QuoteSpeaking of which, it dips down at the CB, suggesting that it is being pulled down (there are possibly drag lines there?) Though that could be something to do with your pinning (if that's what you did). I did say not to hoik things up too much in an attempt to resolve any folds below the leg, as tempting as that is.

The waistband actually sits where it naturally sags to. Before sewing on the waistband I put on the toile and pinned a loose waistband around my waist and marked where it would sit and marked that off. Then sewed on the waistband at the normal top seam to compare. It more or less was the same as the front top seam but was 2 inches lower at the CB. So I pinned up.

QuoteThe waistband is also higher at the front than at the back. Try to even it up when viewed in profile.

That is kind of the whole challenge I put myself in. I'm an ostomy patient so it can't really go lower in the front... I do have an idea to balance it out. I could cut the waistband at the sideseam and sew on a seat piece on the back to fill in the balance.

QuoteAs mentioned, folds below the seat usually require pattern manipulation. There are a number of ways to do this. The way I learned was to create a wedge under the seat, to shorten the length of the leg at the back. With a flatter backside (you possibly fall into that category), the wedge is taken higher up IIR. I'd have to dust off a book to check the details. 

I got this adjustment, is that the one you mean?



I'll have to rip apart the toile and adjust the pattern with a shorter CB and see how that will look.

Quote from: Robb on July 01, 2025, 04:24:38 AM

Quote from: Gerry on July 01, 2025, 03:30:09 AMRobb, have you pinned the CB seam on the outside? ... pinning on the seam is not a good idea (assuming this is what you've done).

Yeah that's what I did, I pinned the excess on the outside of the seam.

Unfortunately it's not very good for evaluation of fit. It would be best if you resew the CB and post pics before taking any further steps.

I appreciate your problems with the waistband. You could possibly take it a little higher at the back. That would probably require a little shaping of the CB seam though, right at the top of the seam. Think of it like an additional dart just below the waistband, about the same length as the actual darts.

Yes, that pattern adjustment is the one I was thinking of. My advice would be to leave that for now. Let's see where we stand with a cleaner CB seam (not pinned). 

It's so much better than the last version and I think you are pretty near. The side seams are nice and straight and there is enough width across the thighs.
The back is a bit messy, also distorted by the pinning.
My approach would be: remove the pinning and sorting Out the right waistline at the back. To me the pattern you posted Shows a draft for braces and the triangle 20-22-23 is a braces extension. I would skip this and stay with 22-23. Install a second back dart when the waist line is too wide. To avoid the chevron shape at CB, AIM for a right angle at waistline/seatseam Point.
When the fitting Shows sagging I would pin or baste a horizontal dart across the butt taking out 2-3cm at the seat seam, fading out at the side seams( Like the alteration scetch you posted).
This will also reveal, wether the undersides are too wide and need further alteration.