Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

I'm about to start cutting a linen jacket for myself.  Could use a little advice from the more experienced:

- This is for warm weather, so I'm thinking about a half lining.  Done the conventional way in the fronts but with the back and sides hemmed short.

- How long should a half lining be?  Waist length, or a bit longer (or shorter)?

- How to finish the lining hem?  Just double it over, or use a piece of interfacing or tape to reinforce it?

- Should the back lining be left hanging free, or basted down to the seams to the level of the hem?

- Should I canvas the fronts all the way to the hem, or stop the canvas at the waist line (half canvas)?

- Cabrera calls for a double layer of haircloth for the "plastron" in the front canvas.  Would a single layer be sufficient for lighter weight?

Thanks in advance!

The following are snaps of '50s three buttons I downloaded from vintage clothing traders - they always post multiple pics of a garment so it's usually easy to see how it was made (plus these sites are always a good source of inspiration). The photos show two ways of lining the back:





The top jacket has no lining in the fronts and its seams are clean-finished by the look of things, which was popular at that time. For those not familiar with the term, the seams are cut wider and the excess folded back (wrong sides together). To hold in place, the folded edges are simply top-stitched. It's an alternative to bias binding (and less work). For a belt-and-braces approach, the seam edges can be overlocked before tucking and top-stitching (tends to look neater, though I've only seen this on more modern garments).

In the past it was more common to make the canvas narrower along its length, rather than end it at the waist, if lightness was required. It gave better definition to the fronts IMO. Each to their own though.

Whether you leave the fronts unlined depends on how clean any pockets look. Its more of a thing with patch pockets.

Thanks Gerry!

I thought about hand felling the seams below the lining hem.  But that leaves a row of visible pinpricks on the outside of the cloth, and adds bulk to the seam.  I might try doing a Hong Kong finish in that area.

The narrow front canvas idea sounds sensible.

Any advice on doing the lining hem?

This is all basic stuff from a '70s book I own, but useful nonetheless (as an overview):







The book recommends a machined hem for the lining (which I think is how that second jacket I posted was done). I suppose a rolled hem by hand is a possibility. If thin enough, the lining on the back could even be done like a trouser waistband, i.e. doubled with its folded edge being at the bottom. The top jacket I posted might have been done like that (it looks folded and I can't see any stitching).

Quote from: Gerry on June 15, 2025, 02:49:23 AMWhether you leave the fronts unlined depends on how clean any pockets look. Its more of a thing with patch pockets.

Or the facings are extended to the side seams to cover everything (the book mentions this). Though that can make the jacket on the warmer side, which defeats the object.

Lots of kinds of canvases. Linen, cotton, cotton/goat hair, camel, some with horse hair from tails and makes. Haircloth (with horse hair from tails and manes) is mainly for chest shape. "Regular" canvas and hair cloth in the chest for shape and prevent personal body shape from showing through. "Regular" canvas is to keep a pristine clean front appearance. How much do you need, and where? Overcoats four inches below lowest usable button. Many take it to the bottom edge. A blazer how you take it over the shoulder or up to it so the coat cloth is balanced (how you like the cloth to fall) and then down below the buttons for support and and strength. For a nicer edge down the front into the curve at the bottom. DB three to four inches bottom front. The haircloth can be a four inch strip down past the nippel two to four inches. The weave of the main cloth has an effect. So when you lay this all out you decide how much control, and where, that you want.  The rest is free. Unrestricted.
One book I have shows a 3/8 lining. The book is in storage. The "buggy" lining method is probably the least lining method. Hostek might have a method for limited lining.

Better image of the butterfly back:

https://www.moss.co.uk/inside-pocket/post/guide-to-jacket-linings

The hem can be thought of as that of a pair of trousers, which gives you a number of options. The book I linked to mentions catch stitching it, but I find the stitching too exposed. Not only is it aesthetically poor but also structurally: errant toenails are prone to breaking the thread (in the case of trousers).

What I prefer to do with hems is Hong Kong finish their edge, stitching in the ditch by machine to secure the bias (a specialist foot is great for this - I managed to find one for my vintage singer). A slip stitch secures the hem. Angle the needle at 90 degrees to the hem, pinch a tiny bit of cloth then bring the needle tip into the fold of the bias. The moment the tip is in, pivot the needle so that it's inline with the hem and pointing up. Slip under the fold of the bias by the required stich length, exit, repeat. An example on a pair of trousers of mine (the shirting I used wasn't the best match, but it looks better for the pockets and waistband):

I've done something similar to that for trousers, though not as neat a job.  But shouldn't the hemmed edge of a partial lining be left hanging free?

Quote from: jruley on June 15, 2025, 10:52:36 PMBut shouldn't the hemmed edge of a partial lining be left hanging free?

Yes, it should, but not the actual, cloth hem of the garment, which will be exposed due to lack of lining (and which is what I was referring to in my last post - I should have been more specific).

Quote from: Gerry on June 15, 2025, 11:07:30 PMYes, it should, but not the actual, cloth hem of the garment, which will be exposed due to lack of lining (and which is what I was referring to in my last post - I should have been more specific).

Gotcha - thanks!

One guy making pocket squares rolls the edge 3-4 times. If you hand sew, or blind stitch, 8-10 stitches an inch, loose stitches, it's very nice. Just catching two layers. I've done this on shirt hems.
Some of these linings are doubled. No hem necessary. Linings are always put in loose so they never interfere with the fit of the coat.