Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Does anybody has a zoot suit construction?

My impression is that they are completely draped, and draped to the maximum excess of cloth.

Most mid- to late 1930's drafts would be a good start, keyword "London drape"...

Cheers, Hendrick

Occasionally, when I want specific, period details, I'll track down vintage sewing patterns and use them as a guide for shaping lapels, fronts, pockets and the general fit. I copy and adapt those details to my own drafts.

I couldn't find anything from the zoot suit period that would be suitable, however, only more modern 'costumes' (most of which are abysmal). Simplicity Costume No. 4585 is the most authentic I saw, though it's still a little theatrical looking. Patterns are available from amazon/ebay/etsy etc. 

https://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-Costumes-Adults-Size-Pattern/dp/B000MU1OG2

There are more than one garments that are called Zoot suits.

Well, I'm No 'fashionista' by any stretch of the imagination but the only "Zoot Suit" I'm aware of is the one Cab is wearing ... and Isn't he wearing it Well ?? 
LOVE the Bow-Tie 

Some claim that the Jazz musician Frank 'Josh' Billings came up with the Zoot Suit in 1927:

Always impeccably dressed, Billings had an eye for fashion and "was always drawing sketches of well-dressed men". In 1927, Josh showed Bud Freeman one such sketch, outlining a suit that he had conceived. As Freeman was to recall, "The trousers were high peg-top, full in the legs and tapered down to very narrow, cuffless bottoms. The jacket was long, with wide lapels and one button, which was not worn buttoned, and there was a tight vest...My brother, Dave Tough, Josh, Jim Lanigan, Jimmy and Dick McPartland and I had suits of this design made immediately". The look was worn for about a year and the gang thought no more of it until, around 1932, what was almost a parody of Josh's design caught the public imagination and the 'Zoot Suit' was born. Even if this was coincidence, Josh undoubtedly had a flair for innovation and style, at least when it came to fashion.

From an article that used to be on a website I ran:

https://archive.org/details/frankjoshbillings/mode/2up?view=theater

The best Zoot Suit I ever saw was on an old, Afro-Caribbean guy in my local supermarket (of all places!). He was 'Windrush' generation and clearly hadn't altered his style of dress since the late 40s/early 50s. I dare say his family had been embarrassed by this over the years, but at certain points in time he'd have been in fashion, and in old age he looked fantastic (and immaculate, his suit had clearly been tailored). Were it not for my British reserve, I would have hugged him.

So long as it's not parody, it can be a great look (note the Hollywood Top trousers):

https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/three-jamaican-immigrants-john-hazel-a-21-year-old-boxer-news-photo/2667662

https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/boys-in-zoot-suits-no-other-information-available-news-photo/515355786

https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/the-male-college-students-wear-zoot-suits-about-the-campus-news-photo/615293986

https://ar.inspiredpencil.com/pictures-2023/zoot-suit

Trousers look like something Japanese I've seen recently, somewhere..

This discussion has reminded me of a Documentary I saw a few years ago about a group of snappily dressed 'Dandys' or Sapeurs, in the Congo, see here: https://www.messynessychic.com/2011/04/05/who-is-the-dandy-man/

Some very Fine Tailoring and Style exhibited there 

Quote from: Steelmillal on September 21, 2024, 05:14:02 AMhttps://ar.inspiredpencil.com/pictures-2023/zoot-suit

Trousers look like something Japanese I've seen recently, somewhere..

Those are the ones in the pictures I want to remaster. I wrote to Jeffrey Diduch, maybe he has a construction.

DZ, I misread your original post, after re reading I noticed you wrote Construction and not drafting.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on September 21, 2024, 09:31:50 PMDZ, I misread your original post, after re reading I noticed you wrote Construction and not drafting.

Construction or draft is the same for me.

Some parts of the suits are exaggerated.
Lots of padding in the shoulders. Dropping down from the hips it gets wider and longer. Length, somewhere between 8 inches (20cm) below the brow of the seat to a couple of inches (5cm) above the knee. Any kind of fun with the lapels as long as they are wide.
Trousers- Add in as much width as you can. Some show large pleats front and back. High waistline. Long zipper or lots of buttons. Towards the bottom of legs they curve into narrow (band) width. Look at the 40s horse riding patterns, which might help figuring how to add bagginess in the seat and down further.
The purpose of these clothes is pure zany fun. Goofing off clothes. Humor.
At the fitting your customer may want some changes.

Quote from: Der Zuschneider on September 21, 2024, 09:46:51 AMTrousers look like something Japanese I've seen recently, somewhere..

These are not Zooties, but they are Japanese pants. I include them for general interest: