Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

The summer is here and I wanted to sew me some summer trousers. I bought a light darkblue twill with 1 % elastic (4 m). I ripped a piece away and put it into the washing machine for shrinking. When it was try I saw it was not straight.The fabric ends differed by 5 cm (1.80 m length and 1.60 wide) if I lay it doubled for cutting. The fabric was not folded together ("doubliert") - so I did not notice this when I bought. Nevertheless I sewed me a trouser. But with blood tears and sweat! I will wear them to test them.
Has anyone had experience with such a fabric. And what did you do? Smash it into the bin?
lg
posaune
 

I've had this problem once, with some heavier weight poplin (possibly Indian?). It drove me mad at the time because I didn't yet know the following fix.

If the selvedge is a tightly woven block it barely shrinks compared with the rest of the cloth. This can create difficulties with truing the fabric. The only solution is to cut away the selvedge.

The cause of your problem may be entirely different, of course (though the above is worth knowing about). Probably something to do with differences in shrinkage between the elastic and natural fibre content (the former being non-existent?).

Thank you Gerry, that is it. The selvedge on one side is maybe half a centimeter. On the other side it is about 2 cm. I will cut it away.
Lg Posaune

You might need to soak the cloth after cutting the selvedge away, Posaune. Just to relax the cloth again and allow the threads to find their natural positions.

I did it, Gerry. No success. In x-direction from Right side to left side (160cm) the difference is still  5 cm. But the (now cut away selvedge)sides are laying now parallel. Should I use it or trash it away? The weave is dense. on the right side it shows a  weave picture like a garbadine on the wrong side like a linen.
Posaune

It sounds too difficult posaune.

I would find it difficult to throw cloth away, but there comes a time.

It's probably the twill weave? Some twills have the tendency not to stay rectangular and get a bit diamant shaped. I think of denim pants with twisting legs.
Maybe you can use it for some bias cut garments?

If you can't pull it correct, or have a roller to get rid of the bias it's garbage.
I will say, perhaps, cut the pattern off bias and hope it over time straightens out.
Tom Mahon said, something like, in one of his videos, that the pattern is chalked, and when cutting, if his shears go somewhere else he let's them. I heard something about this back in the 60s. Grandfather mentioned it giving different reasonings.
He said that the most important things is fit and never off bias cloth. Woof and weft not at right angles will change the fit to non-fit and it will look terrible. Your customer won't like it. People who see it will avoid your business.
When ordering cloth, and they send you junk, send it back. You make clear that it is garbage, and demand your money back, or proper replacement. If you have more problems with that company don't do business with them anymore. The time involved with these hassles is not worth it.
You cut the cloth. You can't send it back now.

Children grow out of garments in a year. Use the cloth for trousers for 8 - 10 year olds. They will have holes in the knees before they outgrow them. Summer shorts. A Levi style coat.

Quote from: posaune on July 01, 2024, 02:56:45 PMI did it, Gerry. No success. In x-direction from Right side to left side (160cm) the difference is still  5 cm. But the (now cut away selvedge)sides are laying now parallel. Should I use it or trash it away? The weave is dense. on the right side it shows a  weave picture like a garbadine on the wrong side like a linen.
Posaune

Well, I did say it could be something else! 

Personally, I'd use it for samples or possibly initial toiles where concept of design takes priority over fit (at that stage).

BTW, have you tried stretching the cloth on the bias? The technique is demonstrated here:

https://youtu.be/KF60qVY83j4?si=S-gHT84nsDvz7pOs&t=114

It's a bit easier to see in this video:

https://youtu.be/rfvKt_UIG9c?si=KJiUrZyPs44_wSmk&t=212

well, Gerry, hope dies last. I had wrapped it tight over a bolt. Now when it is dry it is about 7 cm from side to side difference. Not ment for trousers maybe some bags. the seller offered me 30% - better then nothing. Tomorrow an very old lady will visit me. She is a taylor. I will ask her about the fabric. in her youth this type of bad cloth was more around than now. Maybe sheknows a trick or two.
Thanks for your emphatie.
posaune

If your tailor friend finds a solution, Posaune, then please let us know! (we can all benefit from more senior knowledge). 

THat sounds most interesting posaune. I also look forward to your further discussion.