Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

I have completed a pair of jeans, wondering if people have any immediate thoughts. I drew the pattern myself. I have been working with an instructor locally on going from pattern drafting through construction on a pair of wool trousers, so I took that pattern and basically raised the crotch curve a bit, made it more snug around the hips/thighs and a little straighter going down the legs, and converted the dart to a yoke. Overall, I'm really pleased. The material itself is a 14oz black denim from Candiani mills, very comfortable.

On the construction side there's of course some improvements to be made, but a lot of that comes down to practice and exposure. At a glance everything looks great, you'd have to really handle them in good light before you'd be able to find what I think are the mistakes.

On the fitting side, I'm fairly pleased. Aesthetically I'd like less taper going down the leg to make an even straighter look, but that's easy. I have a bit of a wedgie on the back part, I think I just need to lengthen the fork a bit on the back part, maybe .5-1cm; as it's jeans I do want it to hug my butt nicely. And according to my wife, the photo is exaggerating the wedgie, it's not actually that bad. On the front part around the crotch, maybe I could tweak the crotch curve a bit so the curve begins closer to the fly, but maybe not. I like the rise, but it did mean a fairly long yoke compared to other jeans you find in the world. The dart on the pants I'm making with the instructor is itself long, it goes past the rear pocket opening - I have a butt that sticks out and then fairly narrow hips, so that makes sense - so converting that to a yoke just meant a long yoke. Maybe there's nothing to be done there, though on the next pants I should raise the placement of the rear pockets. Anyone else see anything I should tweak before I make the next pair?

I can post photos of the pattern itself later on if that helps.

Sorry, I see no pics.
Lg
Posaune

Strange, I see them. Uploaded to Imgur here, along with pics of the pattern pieces https://imgur.com/a/3n66GiJ

The images are only visible if logged in, perhaps this was the issue?

They look nice jeans, well done! If I'm being fussy, then perhaps pick up the seat into the yoke a little, so that things are smoother there? (there's a tiny bit of sag towards the sides).

Quote from: Gerry on April 19, 2024, 03:32:53 AMpick up the seat into the yoke a little, so that things are smoother there? (there's a tiny bit of sag towards the sides).

Sorry, don't quite get what you're saying here. Make the curve going into the yoke steeper?

You seem to have too much length over the seat. It's accumulating just below the yoke and cloth also appears to be being pushed down at the base of the seat, forming folds.

If you imagine the yoke as a waistband for a moment, in a fitting we'd simply tuck that excess up into the waistband, smoothing things over the seat. Ideally, you'd have done the same; only in this case the excess would have been taken up into the yoke.

Probably too late to do anything about it now because they're completed (and they're still a better fit by far than most ready to wear jeans), but if you pin the excess and look in a mirror, you'll probably see an improvement and adjust the pattern accordingly for next time.

Possibly others have a better take on things, so wait for more replies, but that's what I'd have tried first.

Ah I see, yes that makes sense. Thank you, it doesn't seem to be much there I'd need to reduce but yes I think that would improve it.

Thank you, now I see them. There are some things to say about your jeans. I'll come back to it later.
Lg Posaune

I also see some issue to be optimized.
FIrst some quetsions:

Is this a stretch fabric? This is important to analyse correctly.

When You say you want less taper: Your pattern seems veeery straight to my eyes, there cant be less taper without flarig the legs.  Maybe you you mean you want it straight but wider legs?

Pattern alteration: when you want a smaller yoke, just shorten the dart before you do the yoke alteration.

the fit:

You have a forward belly/hip posture in the pics. this results in the bias drag lines , starting at the front tighs aiming towards the calf and causing also the bunching above the back of the knee. These are jeans, working clothes, and an unperfect fit is part of it´s character so I would not necessarily focus on this folds.

But i would adress the fit issues in the hip region. I see a sever pulling line along the yoke seam carrying on across the rivet ending at the fly, several centimeters below the waistband. the side seam is even pulled forwards dramatically above the rivets. the front pockets are gaping.
Im´not sure about the reason. I think you used a stretch fabric. the straight seams do not stretch, therefore the upper edge of the rear pockets and the yoke seam don´t follow the stretch of the fabric and cause the constriction. Maybe you relied on the stretch and removed to much width to get the pants tight? Maybe it´s just the the rigid seams.

Another thing I see is, the side seam is pulled dramatically backwards from the hip line towards the waist seam. this tells me the width is not distributed right. I would pinch out much less in the yoke and instead remove the additional width somewhere at the front parts ( more slanted zip line for example)

No, not a stretch material. And yes I'm realizing I have more of a sway back than I previously appreciated, I'm trying to address that on another draft for some khakis now.

The tightness around the thighs is a tough one, I feel like I'm trying to thread a needle here. I am overall pretty lean, but I have pretty sturdy hips and legs (years of bike racing plus genes), so I'm trying to get that transition from waist to thighs as subtle as I can without sacrificing comfort or just creating these pulling lines.

I appreciate this feedback. Curious to hear what Pousane comes back with as well.

Well, not so different from Peterle. The sideseam shows a balance problem too much fabric in front. you have different hips, right hip looks deeper. The jeans is too long above crotch level. The form of the yoke could be more curvy a.s.o.
A jeans is another draft as a normal trouser. It sits tighter on the body. Because of this you must take out ease. But you must have the right crotch length. To help you seeing the difference I attach a draft from the same body measurements but with the ease of (black) tight standard trouser and a ,,normal" jeans. Have a look at the crotch diameter and the inner sideseams. Lay the front and back pattern with the inner sideseams together like you sew them. Is there enough room?
Lg Posaune

Later: wrong expression, excuse my English. You lay them facing inseam front to inseam back. If you have sewn them together and pressed the seam open. They will probably cross at mid thigh. Now you can see the shape and room for your crotch. Measure at hip level your diameter. With muscular thighs you alter like you do for muscular calves.