Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Hello together,

in the past weeks I've been working on trousers patterns and trying them out by making muslins: this is the best I was able to achieve so far, which is ok - I like the style, but the fit is not good enough to really put the work into a pair in a high quality fabric.
What is your opinion on these? How can I improve them?

Help would be really appreciated!

Don't forget that with actual cloth you're going to have drape, so your trousers will look a lot better.

If you like the style, then commit to cloth. Leave inlay and try a provisional baste. Any issues can be sorted out after the first fitting.

It is not easy to check. I think that your hips are Different. Have you measured both side length? The crotch curve in back is a bit tight and the front a bit long (and full). It is not much. If you had transferred the balance lines from the pattern it would be easier to see.
Lg Posaune

I think the right seat measurement is smaller than the left. maybe up to 1cm, 1.5?

When trying on pants you should always sew on a band to get the correct position whilst wearing.
My teacher always used the interfacing on the photo. It's a sort of nylon wich is fussible.I only use it for this. It's strong and stable and you can use it again and again (without ironing ofcours.

Great idea, thanks Pfaff260

Thanks so much for your advice!

Quote from: posaune on March 25, 2024, 08:26:54 AMThe crotch curve in back is a bit tight and the front a bit long (and full). It is not much. If you had transferred the balance lines from the pattern it would be easier to see.
Lg Posaune

would this be the right way to modify the pattern regarding the crotch?
I will add the lines to the muslin and take new photos - thanks for the hint.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 25, 2024, 09:03:35 AMI think the right seat measurement is smaller than the left. maybe up to 1cm, 1.5?

I am bit confused - are you referring to the muslin or the body measurement?

Quote from: pfaff260 on March 25, 2024, 08:40:19 PMWhen trying on pants you should always sew on a band to get the correct position whilst wearing.
My teacher always used the interfacing on the photo. It's a sort of nylon wich is fussible.I only use it for this. It's strong and stable and you can use it again and again (without ironing ofcours.

thank you for your help, I will do that with the next muslin.

Quote from: Pergamon on March 26, 2024, 09:03:36 PM

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 25, 2024, 09:03:35 AMI think the right seat measurement is smaller than the left. maybe up to 1cm, 1.5?

I am bit confused - are you referring to the muslin or the body measurement?

Pergamon I mean that you actual seat, on the body is reduced compared to the left, by a small amount.  This is giving rise to extra cloth in the muslin, a fold.

 

I was unexpectedly busy the past weeks, but finally I continued working on these trousers.
Construction lines were added and I let out the crotch a bit. Still quite unhappy with the backside. What could be the issue here?

Thanks!

Your body needs another back crotch curve. Let somebody pin that fold at left back side. Then take the trouser, rip the back seat seam. The waist band stays closed. Pull one leg into the other - wrong sides of fabric showing. You will see, that the left seat seam has another contour than the right. Transfer it to the right with basting stitches. Open the pinned left leg and baste the seat seam close together using the new line you have found. Try the trouser on. It will not be much but maybe you have to let out at back side seam a bit.
Lg Posaune

Thank you very much! I will try that

Back Darts are to long.