Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: EvanTA on March 14, 2025, 01:15:17 AMFor the pleat where you shift the pattern equal amounts away from the CF line, when you're making up the pant does that mean you're trying to end up with a "kissing pleat" as in the photo linked below?

https://www.permanentstyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/kissing-pleat-cerrato.jpg

That wasn't my interpretation of the article. D is drawn over to C for an English style pleat; and vice versa for the continental pleat (though do people do things that way for a single pleat?).

I also took it as read that this method was for plain cloth: to maintain better symmetry either side of the pleat, in terms of being slightly off grain (which is possibly going to result in better drape?).

Right then... The initial calico sleeve looked OK, so I went ahead. Here's the result:




Overall I think it's not looking to bad for a first attempt. Possibly something not quite right in the pitch of the right sleeve?

What does everybody think?

Just spreading the paper pattern does not fix the kind of pleat.
But you have to consider the pleat style when you position your pattern onto the cloth. You have to determin wether you want an ironed in crease line and where it should be positioned.
The crease line should always run parallel to the warp thread.
You can see it quite well in this trousers:

https://mrtrousers.it/products/copy-of-dark-grey-single-reverse-pleat-extended-waistband-fresco-wool-trousers-vbc

The terminus technicus is 'inverted pleat' by the way. 'Kissing pleats' is a charming word by word translation of the italian 'piega baciata'.

For the pleat where you shift the pattern equal amounts away from the CF line, when you're making up the pant does that mean you're trying to end up with a "kissing pleat" as in the photo linked below?

https://www.permanentstyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/kissing-pleat-cerrato.jpg

Have you heard of Francis Bodkin?


               

Some of the new phones are able to adapt their settings to make incredible photos of the cosmos. Probably upper end iphones.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 13, 2025, 01:03:37 PMIt's the new phones with astronomical settings.

Astronomical settings ??

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 13, 2025, 01:02:43 PMIs that the south head?

Yes, the Drone or whatever it is is above 'North Entrance' beach.

It's the new phones with astronomical settings.

Is that the south head?