Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Useful Tools For People Learning To Make Quality Garments => Topic started by: vaibhavkhurana on December 17, 2024, 06:48:50 PM

Title: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on December 17, 2024, 06:48:50 PM
Has anyone used this or recreated this?
And is anyone selling it ?

If used do share your input.


(https://i.postimg.cc/XGjmgCk7/IMG-3523.png) (https://postimg.cc/XGjmgCk7)
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: peterle on December 18, 2024, 07:54:54 PM
Well, it shouldn't be to complicated to copy. The drawing says " full size drawing". To get the right size you only have to scale it up till the 1inch of the tapes are 1inch.
I would cut it from a sturdy plastic like a placemat.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on December 19, 2024, 06:24:12 AM
Hey,

Idk why i never thought of that lmfao. Have you used it before tho?
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: peterle on December 20, 2024, 08:40:55 PM
I have used something similar with just one tape. It was nice to determin how backwidth, armhole widths and chest width sum up to the chest girth.
But yours has three tapes. I suppose it is used to triangulate the position, widths and depth of the armhole. The pattern draft will obviousley tell you where to use these new measurements.
But I do not understand,why the tapes all start at different points. In my eyes they all should start at the same point, the crossing of scye bottom line and scye front line. Probably the text explains.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Der Zuschneider on December 21, 2024, 11:10:14 AM
Quote from: vaibhavkhurana on December 17, 2024, 06:48:50 PMHas anyone used this or recreated this?
And is anyone selling it ?

If used do share your input.


(https://i.postimg.cc/XGjmgCk7/IMG-3523.png) (https://postimg.cc/XGjmgCk7)

I have one of those and another one which is a whole frame. Bought them 2011. They are ultra rare and cost a fortune now.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: peterle on December 22, 2024, 07:45:30 PM
What are your experiences?
Did you use them and are they useful devices?
There was a similar  kind of frame metal device for the Lenassi System "Der Reformschneider". Didn't look very handy...
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Der Zuschneider on December 25, 2024, 07:51:19 AM
Quote from: peterle on December 22, 2024, 07:45:30 PMWhat are your experiences?
Did you use them and are they useful devices?
There was a similar  kind of frame metal device for the Lenassi System "Der Reformschneider". Didn't look very handy...
I have that Lenassi device here too in a box. Excellent tool. Probably the best ever developed.
But really you dont need those devices. You can use a strong paper folded in the middle and put it under the arm to find the scye depth. Once you have the scye depth compared with the proportion, you can figure out, what is wrong with the body.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on December 26, 2024, 07:16:16 PM
Could you post photos and info on it ? Maybe i can try and recreate it somehow ?
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: peterle on December 27, 2024, 07:45:55 PM

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW/IMG-3157-jpg-30cbfd568d79b149117a799d4ec5069f.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XrLxcR95/Beispiel-jpg-164d1b8138a2aa1fe4e9b76119688b8a.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrLxcR95)

Pic found online and here is a link on how to use the device
https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987)
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Schneiderfrei on December 27, 2024, 08:02:37 PM
Well done peterle. :D
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Der Zuschneider on December 28, 2024, 09:48:30 AM
Quote from: peterle on December 27, 2024, 07:45:55 PM(https://i.postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW/IMG-3157-jpg-30cbfd568d79b149117a799d4ec5069f.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XrLxcR95/Beispiel-jpg-164d1b8138a2aa1fe4e9b76119688b8a.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrLxcR95)

Pic found online and here is a link on how to use the device
https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987)
That it's the box I have, I could sell it for 1000$. But I Won't
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on December 28, 2024, 11:11:43 PM
Quote from: peterle on December 27, 2024, 07:45:55 PM(https://i.postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW/IMG-3157-jpg-30cbfd568d79b149117a799d4ec5069f.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XrLxcR95/Beispiel-jpg-164d1b8138a2aa1fe4e9b76119688b8a.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrLxcR95)

Pic found online and here is a link on how to use the device
https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987)


Thanks Peterle
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on December 28, 2024, 11:12:43 PM
Quote from: Der Zuschneider on December 28, 2024, 09:48:30 AM
Quote from: peterle on December 27, 2024, 07:45:55 PM(https://i.postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW/IMG-3157-jpg-30cbfd568d79b149117a799d4ec5069f.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCkfTFTW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XrLxcR95/Beispiel-jpg-164d1b8138a2aa1fe4e9b76119688b8a.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrLxcR95)

Pic found online and here is a link on how to use the device
https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/51199854@N08/with/4698755987)
That it's the box I have, I could sell it for 1000$. But I Won't

I mean rather than selling it perhaps if the copyright or trademark is not violated perhaps you could reproduce something like this ? Idk i guess i'm just yapping.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Greger on December 29, 2024, 06:27:07 AM
A Tailor, when he wrote, said that he used a tailors square. He said it has to be absolutely level or plume. At the edge where the armhole is, up under the armhole. Then you can mark the inside corner of the square. And from there you use that point for measurements.

The old pattern systems British-American use 1/4 inch seam allowances. Pushing the square all the way up in the scye and the other part of square at the front edge of scye the seam is going to be a quarter inch away. The system might add the width and height. At the fitting you might find that their personal portions require adjustments to the coat and you might add some proportions. This is why inlays are important. People also change their mind about what they want- inlays come in handy for those adjustments.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on December 29, 2024, 07:43:08 AM
Quote from: Greger on December 29, 2024, 06:27:07 AMA Tailor, when he wrote, said that he used a tailors square. He said it has to be absolutely level or plume. At the edge where the armhole is, up under the armhole. Then you can mark the inside corner of the square. And from there you use that point for measurements.

The old pattern systems British-American use 1/4 inch seam allowances. Pushing the square all the way up in the scye and the other part of square at the front edge of scye the seam is going to be a quarter inch away. The system might add the width and height. At the fitting you might find that their personal portions require adjustments to the coat and you might add some proportions. This is why inlays are important. People also change their mind about what they want- inlays come in handy for those adjustments.

Kind of stuck between overshoulder, strap, blade measurement and with the combination of cutters practical guide and the regal system. Kind of trying to recreate my own version of a nice fitting drape cut.

I guess i'll keep this in account aswell with the measurements.

Thank you for the help Greger 😄
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Hendrick on December 29, 2024, 08:25:40 AM
Quote from: Der Zuschneider on December 25, 2024, 07:51:19 AM
Quote from: peterle on December 22, 2024, 07:45:30 PMWhat are your experiences?
Did you use them and are they useful devices?
There was a similar  kind of frame metal device for the Lenassi System "Der Reformschneider". Didn't look very handy...
I have that Lenassi device here too in a box. Excellent tool. Probably the best ever developed.
But really you dont need those devices. You can use a strong paper folded in the middle and put it under the arm to find the scye depth. Once you have the scye depth compared with the proportion, you can figure out, what is wrong with the body.

Yes, that and a small leadline or plumb line and a square angle to find a perfect horizontal as well as determine the fore- and back arm points. Like Greger said it is imperative that everything is perfectly level; the armhole is formed in a perfect rectangle.

Cheers, Hendrick 
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Greger on December 29, 2024, 10:02:21 AM
Drape is a straighter cut. Which means the front edge is closer to the neck point.
One way to maybe describe it is, draw lines down from the front edge, neck point, end shoulder point (this can vary), and the seam that sews to the back.
With these lines drawn you can move the front line closer to the neckpoint line (not sure Scholt did this). The shoulder end line can be moved over, which moves the scye over. Or move the side seam over, which changes the scye as necessary. If you want 2 inches of drape you are pushing these lines apart somehow to get the drape you want and where. Anderson and Shepard may still add an inch to the back shoulder. And there is shrinking and stretching to produce pleasing shapes and clean fall of cloth.
A normal pattern can be adjusted this way. Have inlays and at the fitting decide what floats your boat.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: pfaff260 on December 29, 2024, 06:54:15 PM
I had posted it before, but here it is again. somehow it disappeared.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lhr3Lc55/pag-1.png) (https://postimg.cc/Lhr3Lc55)

(https://i.postimg.cc/DWyr7Fjj/pag-3.png) (https://postimg.cc/DWyr7Fjj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/gnHLjQ6f/pag-10.png) (https://postimg.cc/gnHLjQ6f)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XZzC35yq/pag-4.png) (https://postimg.cc/XZzC35yq)

(https://i.postimg.cc/9RwqffGp/pag-5.png) (https://postimg.cc/9RwqffGp)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tn0nnHkH/pag-6.png) (https://postimg.cc/tn0nnHkH)

(https://i.postimg.cc/dZ8k8SNZ/pag-7.png) (https://postimg.cc/dZ8k8SNZ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/grRZFncc/pag-8.png) (https://postimg.cc/grRZFncc)

(https://i.postimg.cc/PPj8tTNW/pag-9.png) (https://postimg.cc/PPj8tTNW)
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: NEIL on January 02, 2025, 02:16:56 PM
Hello vaibhavkhurana,

Just thought you might find this useful:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3dxKXYRN/CPG-Scye.png) (https://postimg.cc/3dxKXYRN)
https://i.postimg.cc/QxpHrMZQ/CPG-Scye.png
I hope Rory doesn't get annoyed with me for sharing this, however, he makes it clear in his new drafting book that this device is super old, can't be attributed, and is beyond copyright, etc., ...

You might also be interested in:
https://perkinstailoringinstruments.com

best -
NEIL
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: vaibhavkhurana on January 02, 2025, 04:41:29 PM
Hey Niel,

Thank you for this.

I do actually own the perkin's kit.

Even though it works great when it comes to adjust front vs back balance. I wanted to recreate the front scye device because of its mystery.

I dont usually need to take depth of scye or blade or strap measurement with the system i use but i'm always looking to innovate and i do feel that not taking these measurement is a hinderance to the craft even though with the system i use its not needed.

Still relatively new to the field ( only been like 8-9 months) and want to really create something i feel i've given everything to.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: NEIL on January 03, 2025, 03:24:55 AM
Wonderful!
It sounds like you're way ahead of the game, vaibhavkhurana ...

I was also trained in a slightly different method that does not utilize these devices but I too am always willing to learn new tricks if it means I can improve upon the quality of the work.

You've only been at it 8-9 months now?
You're a superstar -

Best -
NEIL
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Anni S. on January 04, 2025, 06:41:33 AM
Quote from: vaibhavkhurana on December 17, 2024, 06:48:50 PMHas anyone used this or recreated this?


(https://i.postimg.cc/XGjmgCk7/IMG-3523.png) (https://postimg.cc/XGjmgCk7)


I am new to the forum and can't see a Foto or link of the tool. Please anyone, tell me what I am doing wrong. :(
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Gerry on January 04, 2025, 08:10:50 AM
Quote from: Anni S.I am new to the forum and can't see a Foto or link of the tool. Please anyone, tell me what I am doing wrong. :(

Make sure you're logged in, then you should be able to see links and photos.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: stoo23 on January 04, 2025, 09:01:18 AM
QuoteMake sure you're logged in, then you should be able to see links and photos.
Well, 'Anni S', would have HAD to be logged-in to have made that post  ;)

I am unsure Why you cannot see Photos etc,.... What browser and operating system are you using ??

'You may want to try typing; Ctrl+F5 this will cause your B rowser to Load the latest/current 'live' Page, instead of (perhaps), loading the Last page you visited from it's Cache  :) 
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: Gerry on January 04, 2025, 09:03:58 AM
Quote from: stoo23 on January 04, 2025, 09:01:18 AM
QuoteMake sure you're logged in, then you should be able to see links and photos.
Well, 'Anni S', would have HAD to be logged-in to have made that post  ;)

I am unsure Why you cannot see Photos etc,.... What browser and operating system are you using ??

Ha ha, good point!   :) I have flu at the moment so my brain is totally disengaged.

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. I cleared all my cookies and browsing history, then rebooted my laptop.
Title: Re: Front scye measure device
Post by: stoo23 on January 04, 2025, 09:10:28 AM
Yeah,.. I was kinda thinking the same thing, in fact I'll Edit my previous post.

Due to the sudden arrival of a Lot of Fake Account registrations and Spammers, I was looking into the New Member Permissions and to allow me greater control over those, I DID 'enable' a particular function, that had Not been enabled previously ... but having checked, it has NOT changed anything, as far as access etc goes.

Hopefully they will return and respond so a solution can be achieved  :)