iron work on a two piece sleeve

[mysewingpleasure]

Hi, everyone, I have a request, please.
Today, I watched a video, Gusev demonstrate how to press the sleeve. He has been talking for one hour, about a few area, irons, the mat he uses, lastly, pressing the sleeve. I watched the whole video, but only understand how he pressed, but not any single sentence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua2Ig7jkPqM


Please, please, anyone? please bring out a summary of what he taught, he is always teaching his students, he is a great teacher, he explains every little detail.

Please can you tell me why he used the canvas?horsehair for the mat on which he press? Is there something interestingly informative?

Thank you!

[Kiem]

Not sure if any of this is useful to you.ut its on the topic of sleeve shaping so I figured I'd share anyways.

I think the canvas might be to keep the fabric from slipping while pressing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVqhC4kUZzc&frags=pl%2Cwn


I have some notes I gathered on the internet for shaping a 2 piece sleeve with a false forearm seam.
Not sure if this applies to a regular 2 piece sleeve though.






Notes that go with the above pictures:

It has occurred to me that there is a great amount of discussion about fabric, canvas, basting and padstitching, but that there is another element of tailoring which is misunderstood, or not understood at all. I will say that pressing, which includes the shaping before, during, and after tailoring, plays one of the most important roles in shaping a suit, more so than many of the sewing operations. IT is not only about making a seam flat or free of wrinkles. To illustrate the point, let's look at the shaping of a sleeve. On a well-made suit the sleeve is made to curve gracefully, following the shape of the arm. To do this we need several seams and some careful pressing. The elbow seam follows the outside of the sleeve, but the seam at the front of the sleeve is tucked 3/4" to 1" inside the fold of the sleeve in order to conceal it. In the photo below, observe carefully how the lines of the check on the undersleeve are straight but the top sleeve are very curved. This is not at all natural and very important.

Normally we need a seam at the exact place that shaping will occur, that is to say, right along that front fold, not 1" back. If I fold the topsleeve back in its natural state, observe below that not only is the front of the sleeve straight, but the curved edge goes in the opposite direction from that which we want. Here comes one of the bits of tailoring magic.

I will use a great deal of steam and pressure, holding the iron in one hand, pressing down in a very specific method, and carefully stretching the top sleeve the length of the curve. There is technique to this that must be learned properly or the sleeve will never hang properly. Using steam and heat, I have re-shaped the top sleeve and re-set the shape, much like using curlers or a curling iron on hair. It is no longer a flat, two-dimensional piece of cloth, but has a shape. Folded into position, the seam now takes its proper shape and the sleeve will curve with my arm.

Just the way I used steam to shape the sleeve, if I use steam on the sleeve without holding its stretched, curved position, I will undo this shaping. The sleeve will relax and hang straight (its natural position) instead of curving, and the tension created will cause a small break just below the elbow. It is a subtle thing to some, but to tailors it is glaringly obvious. It is one of the first signs that a suit has been mishandled. You probably never noticed before, but maybe now you will. And this is only one piece of a suit; not one piece of a suit (and there are many) is left flat, without any of this sort of manipulation, and steaming a suit can undo it all. You may not see it now, just like once upon a time you didn't know the difference between canvas and glue, but you can learn to see it and to appreciate the work that goes into a well-made suit.


These notes are not my words, I do not remember where I got them unfortunately. Maybe someone else knows what the source is.

[mysewingpleasure]

Kiem, thank you for your kind explanation to this topic, I am sorry to get back to here so late, after about a month. I had been sewing a few hundreds of fabric masks for a Christian organization.
I really appreciate your attached photos showing how the shape the sleeve should be looked like with the contrast color of the white card stock, when it is compared side by side, I can see the result of pressing into the right shape. And as a matter of fact, I would say I will do this comparison to see how well the sleeve is shaped by laying the sleeve as the picture showed here.
Thank you for your input, it is very helpful to brighten up my brain, there are always some some skill and idea to learn, that is what this site is for.

[Kiem]

I literally found this info somewhere hidden on the internet and saved it just in case I would even need it

But since there is so much info scattered everywhere it is nice that we can save these bits of info and keep them where people can find it.

So I am happy I might be of use!

[TTailor]

These notes are not my words, I do not remember where I got them unfortunately. Maybe someone else knows what the source is.

I believe this is from tuttofattoamano, Jeffrey D's blog.

[Kiem]

I didn't find the exact post in a quick search, but it is very possible I got it from Jeffrey D's blog.

Here is another bit on shaping a 2 piece sleeve, this time for sure from Jeffreys blog. I hope it is ok if I share these things...

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2014/01/shaping-underarm.html

[Greger]

Believe Poulin's book has another method.
Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide For Men's Wear - Meyers, Patricia Flaherty, even another method.
Sleeve design can make a difference.
A properly hung sleeve, shaped right (cut), scye the same, and the problem could be from somewhere else on the garment. The part that is sewn into the scye might need to be longer at certain places.
There's more. Clothing is about art. Which is appeal, desirable, cool, other people look at it and say, "I want it", and the list goes on. Tailoring is about a higher standard than something bought at the store. If you need extra length in the sleeve at cap. How are you going to do that?  Can you shrink it in? What about pleasing looking ripples? You set the tone and the attitude. Not copy. Or trying to fit in. Your doing more. You are setting a standard that everyone else wants. And the rich pay. Even some poor will save up to buy some of these garments. Tailors that are overwhelmed with much work charge high prices. The rest don't. Tailoring really isn't about snobbery. It's about art.