Anyone near Amsterdam want to participate in a menswear tailoring experiment?

Started by Tailleuse, January 16, 2020, 07:38:14 AM

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The author, R. Jeffery Diduch, is an executive at a prominent men's tailoring company, but he's a terrific tailor. He used to write long blog posts dissecting clothing, while occasionally sewing for himself and demonstrating techniques like buttonholes. If he has faith in this software it's worth paying attention to. There's a fee, but he says the service is being made available for a deep discount.

My only association with Diduch is as a reader of his blog for many years.

A New Approach to Bespoke


Thank's for bringing this link Tailleuse.
Schneider sind auch Leute



Henry Hall

I don't want to be a nay-sayer (well...), but why is Jeffrey always trying to come up with reasons for mass manufacturing things with machines (positive reviews of lapel-padding machines etc), but on a blog called Made By Hand...'the great sartorial debate' (where there is actually no debate)?

I'm willing to be shown up as completely misguided, but as I see it this vision of a computer-aided (algorithms) drafting/cutting/fitting system is really just 'advanced MTM'; computerised Monty Burtons. It's not craft tailoring. It also has a tiresome bias toward the idea of technological advancement being obviously 'the thing'. Of course the possibility of being able to get a garment made in this way, with a superior cut/fit to all ready-to-wear, and likely better than a lot of MTM, has benefits. Are they going to be price benefits though?

What is the actual vision? Is the fact of having computer-aided cutting there to reduce the price (because obviously it is no longer just the expensive time of a cutter), or is it to just reduce the burden and broaden the profit margin by selling these garments for the same price as craft tailored garments?

A purely personal observation regarding the photos. I live in the NL and there is now a strong tendency for people to wear shrunken coats and trousers that look like leggings. If this was to be made for a broader international clientele, it would require some styling flexibility; which I am sure they have considered.
'Being perfectly well-dressed gives one a tranquillity that no religion can bestow.' - Ralph Waldo Emerson.


Eventually there will be very good technology that will probably replace off the rack. Replace cutters and tailors, never! Bench made has options that can only be discussed with customer and cutter and cutter and tailor. The human heart has millions of variations that are called desires. Computer programmers simple do not have that vast amount of knowledge. No single person does. Nor any group. There are new desires all the time. Even dragging lines to different places only achieves so much. No doubt this will make clothing much nicer than what is presently available to the common person. But it will never replace top tier work. The purpose of the pattern is to help in the process of making the garment. Not rule the garment. Garments that are pressed into shape. Even this is art and can be done many ways to achieve that specialness of the garment that the customer ask for. Basic pressing is for beginners. Sometimes I see garments that are at war; the pattern and pressing don't agree. When they hang on the customer, no matter how many fitting, the customer is not embellished by the garment. Resistance instead of flow is not good. Can these new systems put the goods where the goods belong with out fittings? Inlays are important. Measurements, patterns and cutting. Cuttings needs inlays for perfection. Will they machine baste for the fittings? The human brain accumulates knowledge and skills that the machines never will. Machines follow codes. Humans don't. Humans are forced to think outside the box. A machine can't. Maybe in 50 year there will be enough code, and then people will decide to go naked (giggle giggle).