Chaudhry denim jacket questions

[Milo]

Hello everyone, I've been viewing this forum for a couple years, and sewing for a few. This is my first post. I'm sick of drafting and then sewing garments that I'm not 100% sure about, so I thought I'd finally ask this forum. I was hoping to get some help with this Chaudhry denim jacket draft. It doesn't clearly show where the seam allowances are. It seems like there is a page missing that includes the diagram. If someone could help explain where the seam allowances are, or has the missing page, I would really appreciate it. I could then make my first denim jacket!

[mysewingpleasure]

Milo, the allowance is illustrated at the first page right besides the model's right hand elbow. Hope it helps.

[Milo]

Milo, the allowance is illustrated at the first page right besides the model's right hand angle. Hope it helps.

Right, it gives a bit of a description, but not a very in-depth one. It says on the page with the collar draft on it to see "illustration section B" for a further instructions on the seam allowances. which doesn't appear to be in any of the pages. I don't want to go into this without being 100% sure of the seam allowances. Thanks for the reply.

[pfaff260]

Illustration section B as requested. Hope it helps.

[Milo]

Illustration section B as requested. Hope it helps.

Yes, that helps a lot, thanks! Theres still some things I dont understand though about the draft. Its not illustrated on the section b diagram that there should be any seam allowance added to the back neckline, or to the length of the jacket. When it gives you the measure for the length of the jacket (center back), it says for that measure to be the full length minus the waistband. So if no seam allowances where added, the jacket would be too short, and the neckline would be not right either. So I'd assume that I should add seam allowance to the length and back neckline. Based on the fact that 1" wasn't added to the cb, for two 1/2" seams, I'd have to add allowances, right? If this is correct, why is it not mentioned? Is it just a given in pattern drafts, or in the Chaudhry method? And so if I add seam allowance to the back neckline, then should I do the same to the front neckline, or is that one actually already in the draft?

And then the armhole, shoulder, and side seams all have allowance, so there's no need to add allowance to the armhole or anything? Just want to double check with someone more experienced. Thanks to anyone that can help!

[Greger]

The neckline and shoulder are as a unit. You can't add to the neckline without messing up the shoulder seams. This is for the back. Fitting the shoulders is in a different category. For example, shoulder slope or uneven slopes. Even the armholes are part of this unit.
Back length is determined at the fitting/fittings. After the shoulders, chest/back widths, armholes,  waist shape and design changes.
Seam allowances are not for fittings. They are part of the paper pattern.
Inlays are added on the cloth for fittings and style/fashion changes. Chalk around the pattern pieces on the cloth, then add inlays to the cloth for fitting adjustments and the other two changes. Diagrams that show inlays will help.  Because this has a yoke you can add inlays to the yoke and lower part that sews to the yoke.
After cutting be sure to threadmark the pattern chalk lines, buttonholes, etc. This information will help with moving buttonholes and other details and changing the paper pattern (for that person).
Poulins book and Hosteks book explains some about fitting, along with some other books by tailors. Sometimes others have good answers. But, I would check what tailors say first.

As a boy listening to a young tailor asking grandad if there was any way to fix a coat cut from a pattern incorrectly drawn (a new pattern system) for the person to wear that coat. Grandad asked him if he followed the basic rule of the unknown, "Did you add inlays." The youngester said, "No."  Grandad said, "There is no way to add cloth where you need it." (Inlays are added cloth for the unknown.)

[Milo]

The neckline and shoulder are as a unit. You can't add to the neckline without messing up the shoulder seams. This is for the back. Fitting the shoulders is in a different category. For example, shoulder slope or uneven slopes. Even the armholes are part of this unit.
Back length is determined at the fitting/fittings. After the shoulders, chest/back widths, armholes,  waist shape and design changes.
Seam allowances are not for fittings. They are part of the paper pattern.
Inlays are added on the cloth for fittings and style/fashion changes. Chalk around the pattern pieces on the cloth, then add inlays to the cloth for fitting adjustments and the other two changes. Diagrams that show inlays will help.  Because this has a yoke you can add inlays to the yoke and lower part that sews to the yoke.
After cutting be sure to threadmark the pattern chalk lines, buttonholes, etc. This information will help with moving buttonholes and other details and changing the paper pattern (for that person).
Poulins book and Hosteks book explains some about fitting, along with some other books by tailors. Sometimes others have good answers. But, I would check what tailors say first.

As a boy listening to a young tailor asking grandad if there was any way to fix a coat cut from a pattern incorrectly drawn (a new pattern system) for the person to wear that coat. Grandad asked him if he followed the basic rule of the unknown, "Did you add inlays." The youngester said, "No."  Grandad said, "There is no way to add cloth where you need it." (Inlays are added cloth for the unknown.)

Thanks for the reply. I understand seam allowances and inlays. Seam allowances are the fabric that is needed for the seams. Inlays are extra fabric to be let out later if needed. Are you saying that there are no seam allowances at the neckline, shoulder and armhole, so that the proper shape (stitching line) can chalked onto the fabric, and then you would add the seam allowances and inlays after that? So in other words, there are no seam allowances at the neckline, shoulder and armhole? Or are you saying that I should just go ahead and add inlays because I don't know if there are seam allowances there or not?

[Greger]

I believe where seam allowances have not been included the edge of the pattern is the sewing line. Therefore, what you add beyond would be the seam allowance and inlay. This would be B and C Diagrams.
It certainly allows for fashion variation.

[posaune]

That's why I hate these (old) male pattern! I know it from german pattern like this: s.a. are at the shoulders at armholes and at side seams. Neck and center front and center back hemline are seam lines. And in Germany only 0.75 cm!!
If you derive your pattern in that way, that you cut the panels, yoke or else from the basic pattern you have to add s.a. at the seams
lg
posaune

[peterle]

I think like Posaune.
After reading through the instructions I´m sure there is SA included at the armhole, because according to the instrucions there is SA added at the sleeve crown and it would be very stupid to add SA only on one side of a seam.
I´m also sure there is SA added to the shoulder seams (after converting the neckhole measurements to centimeters and comparing it to a Rundschau draft). Otherwise the neckhole would be very long.
I´m also convinced that the neckhole itself is drafted without SA because when you would remove another 1/2" all around the neckhole would be a lot too huge. The instructions also tell you to measure the neckhole line and not 1/2" inwards to get the collar length.
So besides the SAs that are mentiond in the text You also have to add SA for the waistband seam, the neckhole and the collar.

[Greger]

I didn't read the whole directions through. I did read that seam allowances everywhere, except.
1/2 seam allowance for the neck is huge, and would cause lots of problems. Armholes, too.
Believe they did these to goof up non tailors. Keep customers coming back to tailors instead of making their own clothes.
But, even then, tailors do far more than make good patterns. Having a good pattern can still create a shoddy garment compare with what tailors make, that is, better tailors, because, clothes are art about their purpose. Otherwise, clothes can be rather stale. One time I walked into a store selling musical instruments. The guy behind the counter was wearing a green blazer that screamed Rock and Roll. The tailor that made the coat adjusted an ordinary blazer pattern a little bit, shaped the cloth and method of sewing it which turned an ordinary pattern into an rock and roll coat. Clothes have purpose and tailors are to extrude the most of the purpose.

[Milo]

Ok, so the front and rear necklines do not have SA. The shoulder seams do, along with the armhole and side seams. Or, at least that's our best guess right now. When drafting the sleeve, he uses the circumference of the arm hole as a measure for drafting. He doesn't say whether to measure 1/2" inside the armhole, as you would if there were a 1/2" seam allowance. So either there is no seam allowance, or somewhere else in the book, he shows how he measures the armhole, and that he measures 1/2" inside the armhole. Surely in the book there's a section on measuring necklines and armholes. And he would say whether there is seam allowance there, or if he leaves them out, maybe for easier measuring. In Poulin's book he has a page on measuring necklines and armholes I believe. If anyone has a PDF of this book, that would probably be the most helpful thing. Or honestly, if anyone has a different draft for a denim jacket where things are more clear than this, then that would be really appreciated.

[posaune]

In Germany the sleeves drafting instruction includes seam allowances -at the cap and the side seams but not the hem. Here he took the measured sleeve length and added 2 s.a. which is reasonable.   Read the mail from Peterle . Otherwise it would be very difficult to draw.
I'm from the woman's department. To get not confused I mark all the seam allowances inside those pattern! (Nowadays with all the computer around they came to senses and do net-seamlines construction!)
So you do not have the book from Chaudry? Mostly in the introduction these kind of things are explained. I
lg
Posaune

[peterle]

I´m sure there is SA in the armhole. It wouldn't´t make any sense at all to add SA to the sleeve crown but not tho the armhole.
Trust the pattern instructions and draft the sleeve accordingly. You will in any case have to control the final results by measuring the seamlines, because you have to control the ease of the sleep head.

[pfaff260]

,,So you do not have the book from Chaudry? Mostly in the introduction these kind of things are explained. ''
I checked, nothing there.