Canvas/Hymo/Horsehair etc. what do you look for when buying online?

[Anna]

Suppose a beginner/apprentice had proven his/her chops sewing trousers and skirts and wanted to attempt their first coat- What would you suggest they look for if their only choice was to buy from online vendors.

I ask because in many of the books I've read to date, they suggest using a combination of different weights/stiffnesses of canvas, some mention horsehair where others do not, and from the photos sometimes it is difficult to judge the attributes of the canvas chosen. To that end while the books are recommending the use of different interlinings for different purposes on the same garment many online vendors only offer 1 or 2 choices- let's say a medium and a light weight- sometimes the content is specified other times it is not. Locally the only thing I've EVER seen sold is the Pellon brand Tailor's Pride horsehair canvas it is 20" wide and they offer a fusible (why?!?) and non fusible version and it's quite stiff and cost's just under $20 per meter.

I've been looking for other options from online vendors and have found it difficult to estimate what I might be getting from the descriptions/lack thereof on various websites. Perhaps the best selection/descriptions I've found were at bias bespoke on Etsy but since they offer 33 different choices of interfacings/interlinings I'm not really sure what to look for? They offer a swatchpack--which I intend to order but I'd still like some more information on how to choose since I'm not sure even if I had it in my hand I would know what I'm looking for.


 

[Henry Hall]

I think I understand your position and it is likely useless to be told the names and weights of this or that canvas or whatever materials. When there is nothing to get into your hands and no people who can physically show you, some of the buying is going to be based upon the vendor's descriptions. Even experienced buyers can order trimmings which turn out to be different from what they are used to.

Some of it is down to the type of coat you want to make: highly-structured or softer. You choose how much you want to steady the fronts of a coat and with what - more or less in accordance with what the books guide. Most of the other trimmings like e.g. those in the cuffs are pretty straightforward.

I've given up poring over websites wondering whether the holland linen they sell is 'right' or not. I order a metre and if it's good I order again. If it's not what I want I look elsewhere or read other's recommendations based upon their successes. There's no one-shot success ordering online like this; it can't be like a tailoring shop where the professional trimmer is sorting out sourcing the best stuff specifically for the things they want to produce.

[hutch--]

Anna,

Its not my field but it would be helpful to know what type of fabric you want to use it with. I have used iron on fusable adhesive layers for bonding fabrics but that would be very low end if you are working on a tailored suit jacket.

[Greger]

Some of these places have a phone number you can call. Then there is email. Tell them what cloth you have. Is the coat for a woman or a man? Is it to be soft, medium or firm? Is the canvas going in straight or one of the bias methods? They might even know the book or lessons you are learning from. I would avoid fuse. For vest ask for vest canvas, which will probably be holland linen, there are a couple others. Collar canvas should be linen for a coat, if it has french in its name buy that one. There is a special canvas for the chest area that has horse hair. Being for the chest area it is shorter than the regular coat canvas, you will need both. Then there are other items. Stay tape, sleeve roll, felt or Melton for collar, felt for chest, shoulder pads or wedding if you are going to make them, wiggan for cuff about 5 inches wide and full circumference, etc. No harm in asking what they have

[pfaff260]

These people offer something they call "LES CARTOUCHES" wich is all the haberdashery you need when making a coat.
This is the adress : http://www.lafayette-saltiel.com/

[spookietoo]

Anna- I have spent a considerable amount of time researching this over the last couple of years for all of the same reasons you've listed. I've ordered one swatch set from Bias Bespoke, (arrived quickly, labeled very well) But I'm stiil using canvases I've had for a bit (decades ). I'll need to order soon for a couple of things.

I really think Bias Bespoke is a good place to start as they carry several qualities. Then as things progress I may experiment with different sources once I determine what characteristics I want to achieve.  Unless you live in or travel to a major metropolitan area that has a supply house, there really isn't much more you can do.

And then you add the info you learn from the guys (and girls) here, and eventually we'll get it sorted out.

[TTailor]

I think Jeffrey D at Tuttofattoamano had a post showing some different canvases/hymos and describing their qualities. I don't have time right now to search for a link.

[pfaff260]

I agree on Bias Bespoke. There swatch set works very well.

[jruley]

There is also B. Black and Sons in Los Angeles.  They have a huge variety of trimmings, and will send swatches on request.

http://www.bblackandsons.com/

[Schneiderfrei]

When I contacted them BBlack etc would not ship to Australia, unfortunately.

[Anna]

Thanks everyone, I will order the swatch set and go from there. I have a number of wool fabrics in my "stash" a fairly hefty brown tweed, some grey flannel,navy worsted, various colors of gabardine and other twill weave wools, a grey wool crepe, I have a couple of different houndstooth fabrics of which I have enough for a proper suit so I'd prefer to save those for when I've had a bit more practice. All in all I have from tropical weight to not quite overcoat weight wools, most of what I've read so far would suggest that finer more lightweight fabrics can be more difficult to tailor so I'd planned on  using one of the more substantial fabrics that I have- I'd choose the brown tweed except that brown is very much not my colour so I doubt I'd get much wear out of the jacket and that may discourage my efforts while sewing- so likely a medium weight twill weave. This will be a ladies jacket-- so would you suggest that a lighter canvas would be easier/produce a more desireable result or would you suggest something more medium-heavyweight?

[Schneiderfrei]

You are quite right AG. Though it's hard to get a lot of things.

[Schneiderfrei]

Any useful supplier will be welcomed

[Greger]

Holland linen is very different. It is very thin. It is mainly used in vest.

The main canvas can be made of linen, wool, goat hair, horse hair, cotton. Any combination.
Some tailors have used the main canvas for the 'hair cloth'. Believe one book said that before hair cloth was used in the chest that the main canvas was used. The grain of chest piece runs at a different angle than the grain of the main canvas.

Hair cloth always has horse hair in it.

[Claire Shaeffer]

Gregor, in the US, a Cloth merchant like B. Black also sells interfacings (trimmings). I buy from B.Black and don't know whether other Cloth merchants sell interfacings. This is different from Eng. where they are totally separate.

Since I write and teach couture construction, I have some specific likes --and dislikes. I like B.Black because the fabric content is identified on the sample. Most interfacings are 60" to 72" wide. They are expensive, but the quality is good.

This is what I use: Medium wt. Hymo (wool (65%)/goat's hair(35%)), Ltwt hymo (same content), wht (ltwt) hymo (same content) (Hymo is a trade name for some hair canvas.)

There are several that are good, but I don't use them because they aren't readily available elsewhere--lt wt Hymo (65% goat's hair/35% wool), linen, Irish linen, hair cloth.

I try to avoid heavy wt hymo which is viscose/poly and fusibles.

If you are purchasing from a vendor that doesnn't provide the fiber content, go somewhere else.
Claire