The American Garment Cutter edition 3

[Chicks]

Hello everyone.

Has anyone had success in using the american garment cutter edition 3 in drafting a single- breasted overcoat? Im new to drafting and i was attempting to draft an overcoat using diagram 56. I'm drafting the pattern based on the measurements given to get a feel for it, before using my own measurements. I started to run into a problem when measuring points A to 8 and A to 10. which measurements are respectively 6 3/8 inches and 1/6 of breast which is 6 inches (36/6) it did not seem to "match" figure 56 as it appears that A to 10 is half of A to 8 in the diagram. I believe i will continue to run into this problem as i continue to draft this pattern.

Perhaps im missing something that may be common knowledge to those who have experience drafting using this book. Could someone please advise? Im including the instructions and diagram as a reference. Thank you.

[SO_tailor]

I haven't personally used that draft but there are some things you should be aware of.
The drafts pre-1930's tended to have a smaller half back (which in turn led to a smaller shoulder) as most people back then weren't as tall. So when you are doing this draft make sure to make the half back just a little wider to make the shoulders wider (of course you could also make the shoulders and back wider with the armhole inlays but it's juts more convinent). So if you want a more broader shoulder it would be very easy to add by simply increasing the back width (though make sure to only widen it on A-E to not interfere with the front scye)

[Chicks]

Thank you

[TTailor]

1/6 breast means 1/6 breast on the square.
On the square refers to the tailors square which is marked out in increments based on half of the circumference for drafting.
If the chest is 36 inches, you divide in half so that's 18 inches, and find 1/6 of 18 which is three inches

[Chicks]

Thank you that was very helpful! I followed your suggestion from previous post to use the sample diagram first to understand how the pattern works and I'm glad I did.

Would it be safe to assume that the addition of seam allowances would need to be added to the pattern according to the cutter's preference?

Thank you

[SO_tailor]

Thank you that was very helpful! I followed your suggestion from previous post to use the sample diagram first to understand how the pattern works and I'm glad I did.

Would it be safe to assume that the addition of seam allowances would need to be added to the pattern according to the cutter's preference?

Thank you

There is a difference between an inlay and a seam allowance. Seam allowances are for a addition for seaming included in drafts like these; the drafts pre-1970s follow a 1/4 inch. seam allowance, and are included in the drafts (that is they are produced with them, and not net (which means no seam allowance).

Inlays are additions left on the pattern during cutting, to allow for alterations. An example is the side seam of a coat which has a allowance of like 1 inch.

**TL;DR seam allowances are additions left to allow the machine to seam them. They are pre-installed so to speak in the patterns, usally with a 1/4" seam allowance (if they are pre-1970s). Inlays are juts additions left for fitting and altering.

[SO_tailor]

I recommend first studying some tailoring manuals like Clarence Poulins "Tailoring Suits the Professional Way." Or Classic tailoring Techniques (both available on Archive.org) to get an understanding of how tailors work. It's really helpful first to understand the basics of construction without a diploma in it that before learning drafting.
(That is if you haven't done constructional tailoring before, if you have you can scratch this.)

[Chicks]

Ok, thanks for the advice.

[Greger]

Something about measurements. If your measurements are too different from the ones in the book use the book measurements. Then make adjustments to the pattern. For example, shoulder slope. You wouldn't want to have an oversized or undersized armhole. It is much easier to lift or lower the neckline. What is the shape of your back? Flat? Normal? Rounded? Some adjustments will be added to the front and back. The back shoulder length varies according to the cloth. How much can you shrink? Shrink for why? A pocket for the shoulder blades? Mucsle expansion? These were hand sewn for shaping with an iron. And they were set back to be out of sight. The less seams seen from the front the better. The breast dart was added later because sewn seams holds its shape better than pressed shape. So, for that reason, it is OK, to have that seam. Otherwise, it would not be there. Seams mar the appearance of the garment. Pockets have value so we disregard there seams. The front edge, coat and facing seam, is pushed out of sight, not butted. That edge is slightly curled to hide even further that there is a seam there. The edge stitching is done so not to be seen, unless for decorative purpose. I learned this because of my granddad who had to start tailoring before the age of six. Learn to sew straight, then straight to trousers, then coat making and fitting. As tiny little boys they learned how a coat is to fit. Frock coats where the business coats of the day. About two decades later lounge coats became the business coats. I tend to think that those tailors who learned to fit body coats were better at fitting. Although, Lounge coats have some other thoughts to consider.
Didn't mean to write all this history.
Another book that has some fitting lessons is Stanley Hostek coat making.