Question: asymmetric Neckhole

[posaune]

Hi
it is nothing as difficult as to fit oneself. After my accident I stopped sewing for me. Now I started it again and trust me, I have a problem. I am and was asymmetric, okay. Left shoulder was down about 2.5 cm and left hip measurement was larger and hip point about 3 cm up.
But now the shoulder is only 1 cm deeper than right (good!) but all my necklines (see red line at the drawing) move to the left side. At the right side they are now running direct round the neck. I found that I have at the right side at the neck-shoulder-back a muscle which is thicker (developed, see black lump at my drawing) than at the left side - maybe because I use my right arm now more after breaking left shoulder and wrist. I have a rounded upper back called in german "Witwenbuckel".
I pinned out at the left side about 3 cm from the neckhole circ. But I am not sure that is the right way especially when I think about collars.
Is there any other way you would do it?
lg
posaune

[SO_tailor]

Perhaps maybe crooken or straighten the shoulder if you have an inlay there on the neckline and shoulder ends, probably shifting no more than 2 cm. Unfortunately I don't have a dummy and some muslin so I can't exactly test this to make sure, but doing either a crookening operation or a straightening should do the trick; if both don't work then I don't know what to say.

[SO_tailor]

Here's an example of straightening and crookening in case the terms aren't familiar.

Crookening:


Straightening:

In other words straightening is when your shift the shoulder towards the neckline; while crookening is when you shift the shoulder towards the armhole. In both cases you make the shoulder the same width pre transformation.

Edit: So basically on the garment your making just rip the seam of the shoulder, place it on a mannequin and starlet shifting the shoulder either to the neck or to the armhole. If you don't have a dummy you'll have to what I do and just do trial and error until you get it right. Make sure to add a mark or notch of the middle point of the shoulder so you know how far you shifted it (and a point of return if you have to do a reverse operation). Make sure not to extend it no more than 2 cm or 3/4",.

Hope that helps out!

[TTailor]

In my experience dealing with asymmetry, I have usually ended up with adjusting as required to get the shoulders correct. Could be shifting laterally but usually I think you just have to let the fabric guide you.
I make  a separate pattern for each back and each front, and the collar working from the CB out ends up asymmetrical as well.

Other than padding to even up the difference if possible or desired.
It's not easy.

[Hendrick]

To me personally this would call for a bodice toile ("corsage"). It is vital to have a corrct positioning of centerfron- and centerback lines to project your neckline on. Then, after toiling, with sufficent inlay, you can project and adjust the neckline accordingly, as well as regulate the balance front and back of the shoulderline, I suppose that is why Terry proposes to do two foreparts and two backparts...

Cheers, Hendrick

[peterle]

It would be easier (also for you) with fitting Pics to understand where the folds will run.
Probably you can also find out what to do by slashing the toile at the right spots to see where IT gapes and needs some more fabric. I've seen a pretty amazing set of pics by TTailor using this method for a hunchback costume some time ago.