Pleat depth/width

Started by EvanTA, May 17, 2024, 04:51:47 AM

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When incorporating pleats into a trouser pattern, is there a standard measurement you use to determine how wide the pleat will be, or is it pretty flexible and depends on body and personal taste? I used 3cm for a single pleat on a pair of low-stakes practice khakis, and I don't think it's wide enough. The fold opens up only an inch or two below. I know that's partly a function of the material, but after accounting for that how does one approach setting their width?

I'd love to be able to create pleats that look like these Richard James pants, where the fold continues well down the thigh before it begins to open up:


How did you install the pleat? Just adding the amount to the waist line or did you the slash and pivot method? Use the second to install a deep and long pleat.
Your example hast even two front pleats wich care for enough width. 3cm isn't very much.


I did slash and spread, cut down to below the knee. I've since found guidance elsewhere to make the main pleat 1.5"/3.8cm. I'm going to do a pair of shorts soon, I'll do two pleats on that one, will make the main one 3.8cm and smaller one 2cm.


1949 book says main pleat 1 3/4 inches and the extra pleat 1 1/4 inches. This varies for many reasons. Fads come and go. Personal preference. Larger/smaller person.
When you fold it over and bast. Add a little bit of ease on top side.
Instead of cutting the pattern I would stick a pin where you want to pivot it.
Be sure to follow the grain.
Back in the 1920s they made really short pleats in America that were 5-10 inches long. This would be better for shorts.
Some pleats are sewn down an inch and a half to two, then sew down about 45 degrees to the fold and sew up.