Author Topic: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)  (Read 133 times)

Tikiguayo

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Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« on: May 20, 2020, 11:50:13 AM »
Being relatively new to tailoring I have several questions about constructing a proper unlined-unstructured coat. I will start the the two that are currently troubling me.

1) Canvasing: If I use one (to pad and roll the lapels) what is the proper shape and size? If I leave out the canvas how so I roll the lapels?

2) Finishing: How do I finish darts and the inside patch pocket stitches? Seams can easily be Hong Kong Finished but darts and patch pocket stitches would be an eye sore.

Appreciate the help!

peterle

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Re: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2020, 07:59:33 PM »
from the net:



Tikiguayo

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Re: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2020, 03:07:16 AM »
Thanks Peterle. I have image searched a bit as well and found some beautiful examples of finished seam work but nothing with darts.
What I'm looking for are tips on how to get that Neapolitan structure and what is going on under those facings.

I found this one very useful for finishing visible should pads and arscye seams:


Greger

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Re: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2020, 02:37:17 PM »
Take a layer or two of pocketing for pad stitching the lapels.

Tikiguayo

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Re: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2020, 03:21:26 AM »
I like the idea of using alternative canvasing. What pocketing do you suggest, I have been using up-cycled fabrics for my pockets.

I have experimented with different materials in collars. I did find a lightweight "Italian Horsehair-Like Interlining" on Bias Bespoke. It's cotton with something called melex (synthetic). I'm hoping that between that and all the bias tape (HK finishing) the jacket will have some solid scaffolding but stay light. Cheers!

Take a layer or two of pocketing for pad stitching the lapels.

supercilious

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Re: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« Reply #5 on: Today at 05:01:45 PM »
You don't have to cut the darts open. Just press without cutting!
It can leave an impression on the garment face if not careful though

tom bennett

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Re: Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)
« Reply #6 on: Today at 06:30:34 PM »
You can use a light tropic weight body canvas which is hidden by the facings. If you use pocketing it is generally made from Silesia. I would suggest if you are not cutting the darts open to pick stitch the dart seam to keep it folded back and is something you'll see on Neapolitan coats.
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