Unlined - Unstructured Jacket (project #4)

[Tikiguayo]

Being relatively new to tailoring I have several questions about constructing a proper unlined-unstructured coat. I will start the the two that are currently troubling me.

1) Canvasing: If I use one (to pad and roll the lapels) what is the proper shape and size? If I leave out the canvas how so I roll the lapels?

2) Finishing: How do I finish darts and the inside patch pocket stitches? Seams can easily be Hong Kong Finished but darts and patch pocket stitches would be an eye sore.

Appreciate the help!

[peterle]

from the net:

[Tikiguayo]

Thanks Peterle. I have image searched a bit as well and found some beautiful examples of finished seam work but nothing with darts.
What I'm looking for are tips on how to get that Neapolitan structure and what is going on under those facings.

I found this one very useful for finishing visible should pads and arscye seams:

[Greger]

Take a layer or two of pocketing for pad stitching the lapels.

[Tikiguayo]

I like the idea of using alternative canvasing. What pocketing do you suggest, I have been using up-cycled fabrics for my pockets.

I have experimented with different materials in collars. I did find a lightweight "Italian Horsehair-Like Interlining" on Bias Bespoke. It's cotton with something called melex (synthetic). I'm hoping that between that and all the bias tape (HK finishing) the jacket will have some solid scaffolding but stay light. Cheers!

Take a layer or two of pocketing for pad stitching the lapels.

[supercilious]

You don't have to cut the darts open. Just press without cutting!
It can leave an impression on the garment face if not careful though

[Thom Bennett]

You can use a light tropic weight body canvas which is hidden by the facings. If you use pocketing it is generally made from Silesia. I would suggest if you are not cutting the darts open to pick stitch the dart seam to keep it folded back and is something you'll see on Neapolitan coats.

[Tikiguayo]

I will need to examine in detail some Italian coats. I am not familiar with all the tricks used in Neapolitans. Thanks for the no cutting/pick stitching tip.

[Tikiguayo]

Finish seams before or after sewing seams together?

[Thom Bennett]

Do you mean bind them? Yes tidy up all the visible inlays so they are nice and uniform as they'll be seen. Then do your Hong Kong binding and put the garment together.

[Tikiguayo]

Update. I'm sewing again and today I added pockets to my jacket facings. On the first (pictures below) I used a medium iron-on interfacing to add stiffness the welt, and pocketing with a bit of lining as a facing. The result was a bulky pocket. On the second I used lining only to make the pocket and no interfacing. The welts were too light and lacked structure but the pocket itself is great.

What is the typical interfacing used in this application? Thanks in advance!

[TTailor]

We use a lightweight knit fusible interfacing on both the facing and the lips. Lining alone doesnt have enough body.

[Tikiguayo]

It's been a crazy year... I can't believe I have not stitched anything since July! Last weekend, I resurrected my jacket project and so here I am updating this old thread and asking for advice once again. I am working on the shoulder seams today, making enclosed (finished?--not sure what to call them) shoulder pads. Then I need to figure out how to reinforce them, and finally attach the pads. If anyone has photos or advice, it will happily welcomed. Cheers!

[Tikiguayo]

[Hendrick]

Hi, I use a fusable knit interlining all the time. But for reinforcing the body, especially for fabrics that tend to unravel, I use the lightest possible cotton fusable but cut to the bias...