Author Topic: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions  (Read 355 times)

Mr.gustavsson

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Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« on: August 13, 2018, 06:48:43 PM »
Out of curiosity, how does the choice of color and fabric differ for the back and inner lining for the vest of a 3-piece suit? And are there any preferences for the type of suit/occasion?

In some cases the back is made from the same fabric as the front, which would make the inner lining the same as the jacket. When is this style usually used?

If the back part is not made from the same fabric as the front, would the back and inner lining always be the same (color/fabric)? And should this color and fabric always match the inner lining of the jacket?

Cheers,

hutch--

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2018, 10:54:14 AM »
I may be a little out of date here but generally a vest, coat or jacket uses a different lining material to the outside material and it is usually a fine very smooth lining. I have a couple of rolls of lining that I picked up a few years ago and it is characteristically a very fine close weave fabric made for the task.
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Schneiderfrei

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2018, 04:43:01 PM »
Traditionally the outer back is satin, silk. but now a same cloth can be used.  Its less formal, maybe fantasie style too.

The lining was always silk first, poly as next choice. I have used cotton prints - liberty (cost more than the wool)

BTW interlining is traditionally linen canvass.

G

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2018, 05:07:58 PM »

About the colors. In the first picture the inner and outer part of the back has the same black color and material.

In the second and third photo the jacket and vest back lining is the same pink/yellow color and material. Would the outer back of those vests also always be pink/yellow?









posaune

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2018, 10:10:35 PM »
remark: I sew for ladies.
I learned that the back of a vest is done with lining (I'm quite old) and NO Poly, take acetat or viscose lining.  Because the lining does not stretch like wool, the back pattern of the vest has to care for this. If you are a snob you can take silk. But silk is not as robust as a lining fabric.
You can do the back from the same fabric as the front.
It is up to you. Par example: The lining is thinner and the coat sits better. THe coat fabric could be very expensive and depending on the pattern layout the back would gulp up much fabric.
Or you often take off your coat - so the back with the wool fabric would be nicer to look at. But it is warmer.  And maybe the coat must be cut a bit wider.

 ;) If you don't mind getting catched with a pink- yellow back- do that.
lg
posaune



Mr.gustavsson

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2018, 11:38:34 PM »
remark: I sew for ladies.
I learned that the back of a vest is done with lining (I'm quite old) and NO Poly, take acetat or viscose lining.  Because the lining does not stretch like wool, the back pattern of the vest has to care for this. If you are a snob you can take silk. But silk is not as robust as a lining fabric.
You can do the back from the same fabric as the front.
It is up to you. Par example: The lining is thinner and the coat sits better. THe coat fabric could be very expensive and depending on the pattern layout the back would gulp up much fabric.
Or you often take off your coat - so the back with the wool fabric would be nicer to look at. But it is warmer.  And maybe the coat must be cut a bit wider.

 ;) If you don't mind getting catched with a pink- yellow back- do that.
lg
posaune

If i ever decide to buy a suit with a pink or yellow vest back I will make sure to keep the jacket on.  ;D

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2018, 11:58:02 PM »
Yeah, I'm a Snob  :D

posaune

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2018, 08:50:47 PM »
Oho, Schneiderfrei, I ever thought more a Dandy?
lg
posaune

hutch--

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #8 on: August 15, 2018, 10:53:52 PM »
I am all in favour of linings being a subdued colour, I have seen to very bright ones over time but the bottom line is they are linings and not really designed to be seen. Somewhere I have a roll of miniature herringbone lining but you would have to be very careful where you used it to match the outer garment colour.
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Schneiderfrei

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #9 on: August 15, 2018, 11:46:31 PM »
Maybe that is me?? Yes let me look back?

It could be true.

No wonder I have the draft for the Stutzer ready!

:D

spookietoo

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2018, 04:13:31 AM »
I think fun colors are great for both men and women, but face facts, a pink and yellow lining requires a coordinated shirt color. Wear this with a beige and navy plaid and be guaranteed an emergency requiring the jacket to be removed!

Here's the rule: if you are adding to a substantial existing wardrobe - buy some fun/colorful things.

If you are beginning to acquire a higher quality wardrobe, stick with coordinated, "safe", color combos at first - let the shirts, ties, and pocket squares declare the "fun" colors in the beginning.

Henry Hall

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Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2018, 09:50:04 PM »
The traditional waistcoat has the usual solid colour for the back to suit the fronts (could be heavy lining, but might also be something more like silesia) and the inner is lined with traditional striped lining.

Waistcoats with the fronts/backs made in one cloth seem to be a more modern thing (though I'm sure there must be examples from earlier time) and probably because people wear them without a jacket as a separate garment.

The truth is you can make it any way you want to make it, in any colour or cloth combination you desire. Taste will decide how successful (or disastrous) it will be.